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Routes in El Rito Traditional Area
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Big "E", The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bring Me a Bucket T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cave Woman T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Chile Verde T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Commie Pinkos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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El Faralito T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Gnarly T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Guillotine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Juniper Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Juniper Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Packrat Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pedernal Cracks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Refritos T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Senile Superhero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shiitake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shoes for Industry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swollen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Techo al Derecho T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Weapons of Mass Construction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,176 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Marr on Jan 8, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Warning
Details
Season Raptor Nesting
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
P1. Climb an easy (5.2), run out face past a couple of small trees to a large belay ledge. The protection on this pitch is a little sparse. I slung one of the small trees and placed a questionable cam.
P2. Fun pitch. Climb the face above the belay ledge and work right to the obvious right-facing dihedral. Step around the corner and into the dihedral. Follow the fun dihedral almost to the top where easy scrambling leads to another good belay to the right of a pine.
To descend, scramble up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail.
Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.
P2. Fun pitch. Climb the face above the belay ledge and work right to the obvious right-facing dihedral. Step around the corner and into the dihedral. Follow the fun dihedral almost to the top where easy scrambling leads to another good belay to the right of a pine.
To descend, scramble up and go left (northerly) for awhile to reach the standard, well established and cairned descent trail. This is a great trail.
Alternatively and much less desirable, you can take the "East Gully" descent as described on page 7 of Gary Clark's El Rito trad area guide.
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