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Big Bob's Big Wedge
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British V5 YDS 6C Font
Avg: 3.9 from 58
votes
Routes in Big Bob's Big Wedge
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Big Bob's Big Wedge 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5 6C |
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Annie's Little Slice S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Big Bob's Little Wedge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beam Aboard T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hobo Chang Ba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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End Of The Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Washoe Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Boulder, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Mike Lechlinski |
| Page Views: | 11,912 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | JNE on Dec 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is one of the best crack problems anywhere. It starts out tight offwidth/big fists and fires out the slightly rising roof for thirty+ more feet of hands and fists, culminating in a wide exit that people overcome with various techniques probably mostly dependent on their hand size. The last moves can be committing.
This should be on every wide-crack climber's tick list for Joshua Tree. The 5.11 rating is what's given in the Vogel guide, while the V5 is what's given in the bouldering guide (That guy also only gave it three out of five stars. Guess he doesn't do much crack bouldering). Personally I would lean toward the V5 end of things, which would approximately translate to a YDS grade of 5.12. Absolutely spectacular!
This should be on every wide-crack climber's tick list for Joshua Tree. The 5.11 rating is what's given in the Vogel guide, while the V5 is what's given in the bouldering guide (That guy also only gave it three out of five stars. Guess he doesn't do much crack bouldering). Personally I would lean toward the V5 end of things, which would approximately translate to a YDS grade of 5.12. Absolutely spectacular!
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