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Super Skink

5.10d X, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2 from 5 votes
FA: Mike Rawdon
New York > Gunks > Peterskill > s. The Golden Wall

Description

A high-angle slab, face climb from hell. This route wanders for 10-15 feet back and forth as you struggle to connect the crystals that form your only holds. If you're short (i.e., not 5'9"), you might not even be able to start this climb; at 5'6", I couldn't even get off the ground. Named Super Skink because, as the FA said, "It's totally sandbagged at 5.10; more like 5.10d or harder".

Location

This route is on the face on the OTHER side of the Golden Dream route; go through the squeeze hole to the right. The route starts on top of some stacked blocks/ledges, about 6-8 feet off the ground; go up for about 8 feet, then traverse right under the small roof for about 10-15 feet; go up about 5 feet, then traverse left for about 10-15 feet; go up to top.

Protection

There is absolutely no gear whatsoever. Use the bolts for the Golden Dream to provide an anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Making the reach after traversing right around the overhang.
[Hide Photo] Making the reach after traversing right around the overhang.
Moving left above the overhang.
[Hide Photo] Moving left above the overhang.
Super Skink
[Hide Photo] Super Skink

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] OK, so it's more like 10b, assuming you can reach the horizontal at the right end of the traverse. Oct 23, 2011