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Candy O
5.11b,
Sport, 68 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 120
votes
FA: Jack Marshall
California
> High Desert
> Barstow Area
> New Jack City
> Box Canyon East
> Raven Rocks
> Raven Rocks South
[Hide Comment] Extremely fun route and should be considered an area classic. Two distinct cruxes one lower/mid way with second crux clipping the last bolt before the anchors. (hint...go high) Very fun, well protected and a must do.
[Hide Comment] I agree with the two distinct crux sections with some easier climbing between. A fun route for the grade, the best route on this wall in my opinion (although the 5.9 is a close second)
Nov 18, 2009
[Hide Comment] Outstanding protection. Every clipping stance felt super secure. While the second crux is reachy and a little desperate, it comes right after a bolt so it's easy mentally to go for it.
May 22, 2013
[Hide Comment] This route "used" to be merely 11b till the sidepulls up & left of bolt 2 wore down. The route now, almost exclusively, veers way right of the bolt line (depending on how far one goes right defines just how easy one wants to make the route). The central section up to the upper headwall is easy non-demanding climbing, however, at the last three (3) bolts, be ready for a solid spate of highly sequential & technical face.
Some climbers naively feel that routes hold their grades for years, but, at an area like New Jack City- with its extremely friable stone- is a given for change. Because of this, comments one reads about "easy...well thought out" clips (say on the last bolt, for a glaring example) can bring surprises down the road.
Jan 26, 2015
[Hide Comment] crux up top is absolutely heinous in the late afternoon after the holds have been baking for several hours in the sun. Definitely get on this while it's cold.
Mar 18, 2019
[Hide Comment] Good movement and sequence. Still a fair amount of loose rock. A joke at 11b. Perhaps it was 11b in the 90s before all the holds whittled away. I'm starting to realize why the rumors of "New Choss City" exist.
Dec 29, 2019
[Hide Comment] Solid route, first crux is small feet and committing and beta intensive. Second crux has good crimps and solid finish! Still love this route!
Jan 21, 2020
Avg: 2.8 from 120
votes
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Joshua Tree
~Susan Jan 28, 2007
Joshua Tree
Los Angeles
Carpinteria
Some climbers naively feel that routes hold their grades for years, but, at an area like New Jack City- with its extremely friable stone- is a given for change. Because of this, comments one reads about "easy...well thought out" clips (say on the last bolt, for a glaring example) can bring surprises down the road. Jan 26, 2015
Goleta
Santa Barbara, CA