PRINT: Rock Climb Frog Prince (a.k.a. Babies), Enchanted Tower

Frog Prince (a.k.a. Babies)

5.12a, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 2.9 from 41 votes
FA: John Duran, 1990
New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > Frog Prince

Access Issue: Thompson Canyon Details

The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.

New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.

Description

This is a fun route on great rock. If its length were reasonable, the route would be 4 stars. The hardest moves are stepping off the ledge at the base, so have a stick clip or a spotter. This route heads up and slightly right, on steadily improving holds. With no real rests until the anchor, this is a typical ET mad-dash for the chains.

Location

This is the second route from the left on the 'super steep' section of the Frog Prince wall. Its also the 3rd route from the left of the overhanging dihedral.

Protection

Two bolts with hangers to start then three bolts with fixed chain draws to the anchor. Stick clip recommended.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mike on Frog Prince near the top.

Inspecting the bolt prior to reinstalling.

James Hunter on Frog Prince (aka Babies). July 12, 2009.

Loose bolt (now replaced) on Frog Prince (aka Babies).

Topping out on Frog Prince.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

jbak x
tucson, az

It's hard for me to give three stars to a 29 foot route, but they are deserved in this case. Jan 8, 2007

Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT

D. Jackson's Rock Climbing NM guide shows this route terminating at the anchors for Gollum, but I believe this is incorrect (certainly a possibility though). Instead, continue past three more fixed draws angling up and right. Jul 12, 2009

Pat Mac
Bishop, CA

5.12a

Rather short. Mar 9, 2010

Andrew Ellis
Albuquerque, NM

5.12a

I don't know why you would short-change this route. Actual length is just over 40 feet of climbing when you take into account the angle of it. Fantastic movement on bomber rock. I found the difficulty rather continuous with three cruxy spots. Kicked my ass the first time around, but so excited to come back and work it. Probably deserves just shy of 4 stars, and would likely get them if it were anywhere else in NM but the tower. May 6, 2018