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Humanality
5.10c/d,
Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 5 pitches,
Avg: 3.8 from 205
votes
FA: Greg Collum, Trevor Massiah
International
> Asia
> Thailand
> S - Islands & B…
> Laem Phra Nang…
> Tonsai Bay
> Tonsai Beach (F…
> Ladder Routes (Humana…
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning
here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the
Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
Great route with amazing exposure on the crux pitch. This route gets afternoon sun so it's best done in the morning. It's also very popular so an early start is recommended.
The pitches are thus:
p1: 6a (10a) Climb out right from the cave and then straight up about 20m. Do an easy hand traverse left to get to the belay anchor.
p2: 6b (10c) Climb straight up from the belay anchor. Many people seem to use some big stems towards the top of the pitch but there are other ways to do the crux. Once you're on easy terrain you'll see two anchors. Head to the one up and to the left.
p3: 6b+ (10d) The money pitch. From the anchor climb straight up past about five clips and then start a rising traverse to the right. The wall eventually steepens and the holds start to disappear and progress would seem to be thwarted. All is not lost: look behind you and use the obvious feature. You'll know what I mean when you're up there. A couple more clips and a small traverse past the last bolt gets you to an anchor in a small cave. It's well protected from the sun but is extremely slippery.
p4: 6b (10c) Make some hard moves right off the belay and head straight up for about 20m to the next anchor.
p5: 6a (10a) We didn't do this pitch and it's apparently not frequently done. The rock quality is suspect and because it traverses the descent is made more difficult by doing this pitch.
Location
The route is located on the Tonsai Wall and starts near the Freedom Bar. Since the route doesn't start on the ground, a couple of approach pitches are required. The guidebooks indicate that the route is approached by climbing a banyan tree about 50m left of the route and then traversing right. The preferred way now is to climb the ladder by the bar, head to your left before the second ladder, go up through a cave, and then traverse to the left (clipping a couple of bolts along the way) to a belay anchor. One more approach pitch is required. It's rated 6a (10a) but felt harder to us. Climb straight up past four clips and then traverse right about 20 feet to a belay anchor in a cave. You're now at the start of the route.
The descent: we descended from the top of the fourth pitch and did two single-rope rappels to get to the anchor atop the second pitch and then one double-rope rappel to the ground. The last rappel will put you on the patio of the Freedom Bar. The route can be rappelled with a single 60m rope but it's a pain to do it that way.
Protection
Bolts. Take a dozen draws and something for the anchors. The route has been completely rebolted with glue-ins and I don't remember clipping any expansion bolts along the way. The anchors are fully bolted and have equalized slings with rappel rings. We used a 60m rope. I doubt a 50m would work for the descent.
[Hide Photo] Humanality Topo. It is recommended to skip the final pitch whatever is left of it. All we saw after the amazing roof to pockets 10c pitch was some tat cord. Rapping down in 3 is recommended with a…
[Hide Photo] The original start to Humanality. Photo taken in 1995
[Hide Photo] Chris Andrew enjoying the opening pitches of Humanality. Photo by Brett Christian. 2/2020
[Hide Photo] Last rap of Humanality brings you right to Freedom bar for a well deserved Chang!
[Hide Photo] The view. The bay and Freedom Bar below.
[Hide Photo] Following the 4th (crux) pitch of Humanality. I really enjoyed this climb, and did it 3 times in the month I was there. Photo by Manny.
Joshua Tree
vicenza, IT
SLC, UT
Sandy, UT
Rad climb, worth doing even with only a few day in Tonsai. Take a camera, climb in the morning, take a few slings to extend draws around roof out of cave. May 29, 2012
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Boone, NC
Colorado
Auburn, Ca
Just a heads up, the second official pitch of climbing can go two ways through the crux. If you go left side of the bolts it seemed to be very awkward and strenuous 10d or 11a. Going on the right side of the bolts and through the roof is way more fun, less awkward, and about 10c. We watched many parties go left of the bolts and many of them fell or hung through that section. Nov 22, 2018
Bend, OR
Tucson
Regarding topping-out this section of wall: no, nothing tops out this feature, and in fact there are (as far as I'm aware) zero true top-outs in Tonsai/Railay. Jul 10, 2019
CO
Little more rap beta. Got down in 3 raps with a 70. In the final rap, from the stalagtite ledge, make sure you lower through the gap in the roof to the ground. Don't land on the roof. It's plenty strong (I think), but its a little weird getting off this rusty tin box. Jan 18, 2020
Bangkok, Thighland
I now see why it's a classic. Pretty fantastic climbing all throughout but with some weird-ish approach.
We did 3 rappels down with a single 70m rope. Jul 24, 2020
Bangkok, Thighland
Courtesy of Faii and Dol. Jul 27, 2020
Leavenworth, WA
P2 (as listed here) felt far and away the crux of the route much harder than the following 10d and 10c pitches imo. P3 is not very hard but it is wild and kinda scary (But super safe).
For the rappels, a 70m is required to skip the P4 belay anchor. The rappel is 35m’s plus rope stretch… a 68m rope will result in shenanigans Dec 27, 2024
Bozeman, MT
North Vancouver, BC