Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, TR, 130 ft (39 m) |
FA: | George Bracksieck & Teri Ebel |
Page Views: | 1,967 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Dec 9, 2006 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
This is a fun, little pitch that caught the eye of a pair of dufi who thought that A Very Ament's Slab might be climbable without crampons in December after a snow storm. It turns out, we were just following in the footsteps of a pair of better climbers. This lies on the huecoed south face of the lower cliff seen on p. 200 below route 21 along Approach III in the Flatirons guidebook by R. Rossiter. Theres probably plenty of room for FAs on this cliff band for average blokes or lasses.
It may have been climbed previously...it was. However, no mention of this exists in the Flatirons guidebook or this database...until now.
Stop reading if you don't like beta. Start up an obvious line of little resistance up slightly-overhanging, jugs, huecos, and a tufa of sorts. You can use an orange & yellow Alien before you commit. Then a #3 Camalot fits decently in a hueco for the committing overhang. After 15 feet (the best part), it eases to less than vertical. You can fit a #3.5 Camalot in a hueco above the overhang. Move left to a slot for a #0.75 Camalot. From here, you basically go up easy, neat huecos all the way to the slab edge top of the lower cliff band. You can move left to a natural thread. 130.
To descend, move left then downclimb a couple overlaps to a rappel tree with 2 slings & a fat mallon ring. The rappel tree is visible in the photo on p. 196 Flatirons guidebook by R. Rossiter. Rappel 80 to the ground over 2 overhangs. Alternatively, you could go to the top of the gully which puts you near the base of Saturdays Folly, me thinks.
It may have been climbed previously...it was. However, no mention of this exists in the Flatirons guidebook or this database...until now.
Stop reading if you don't like beta. Start up an obvious line of little resistance up slightly-overhanging, jugs, huecos, and a tufa of sorts. You can use an orange & yellow Alien before you commit. Then a #3 Camalot fits decently in a hueco for the committing overhang. After 15 feet (the best part), it eases to less than vertical. You can fit a #3.5 Camalot in a hueco above the overhang. Move left to a slot for a #0.75 Camalot. From here, you basically go up easy, neat huecos all the way to the slab edge top of the lower cliff band. You can move left to a natural thread. 130.
To descend, move left then downclimb a couple overlaps to a rappel tree with 2 slings & a fat mallon ring. The rappel tree is visible in the photo on p. 196 Flatirons guidebook by R. Rossiter. Rappel 80 to the ground over 2 overhangs. Alternatively, you could go to the top of the gully which puts you near the base of Saturdays Folly, me thinks.
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