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Tidal Wave
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.6 from 31 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | G. & L. Collum |
Page Views: | 5,414 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 7, 2006 |
Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
Step off of the Freedom Bar porch and head slightly right (facing the wall) past the group of huge stalactites to a spot in the wall with a very steep series of bulges separated by horizontals and groups of pockets. Start at a left-facing "flake" of stone and head up and consistently left to a set of anchors.
Most super-steep routes at this grade in the area are all about the pump factor and don't really have any hard moves. I jumped on this route expecting a pumpy endurance issue and good holds. While this was right for the most part, there are a few hard moves and not all of the holds are jugs. Expecting a rest on jugs at the horizontals near the roof's end was a mistake.
This is a great route and is quite steep at any grade. Climb up and clip a bolt then head out the series of steep moves quickly, and don't count on recovering at any given place--just keep going!
Most super-steep routes at this grade in the area are all about the pump factor and don't really have any hard moves. I jumped on this route expecting a pumpy endurance issue and good holds. While this was right for the most part, there are a few hard moves and not all of the holds are jugs. Expecting a rest on jugs at the horizontals near the roof's end was a mistake.
This is a great route and is quite steep at any grade. Climb up and clip a bolt then head out the series of steep moves quickly, and don't count on recovering at any given place--just keep going!
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