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Knee Jerk Reaction

5.11c, Sport,  Avg: 2.7 from 12 votes
FA: Brian Pletta and Mark Thomas
New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Palomas Peak > (09) The Far Side II

Description

Start to the left of Watch Out For That Tree and Lonesome Dove. Head straight up through junky rock, the first bolt is worthless (its around 5 feet off the deck), but can be clipped if you are frightened with the rock quality. Head through a bulge and wander to the right, through a crack, and then left under a large roof block. The crux is as you pull around the roof block. There is a second crux higher up, which is likely more difficult for shorter people. A long reachy move.

Protection

8 bolts, anchor with lowering hooks (lowering hardware added 9/2023 by NMMC, provided by ASCA).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mateo San Pedro
OR
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Pulled straight over the block which was a way fun way to do it. Held onto it like a 'fridge and pulled it like a roof. I thought the second crux was a bit harder though. Maybe just harder on onsite than the first crux but the moves were easier when you found the holds. I thought this climb was badass. May 6, 2013
Anna Brown
New Mexico
[Hide Comment] It seems like the first bolt is more for the belayer's protection since there's a steep dropoff right the belay platform.

I'm pretty sure I counted 10 bolts so that's what I marked on my topo photo. Sep 28, 2023