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Spank the Monkey
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 4 from 14
votes
Routes in (s) Monkey Face
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Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Backbone, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Close Shave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 |
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East Face Start T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Monkey Farce T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Moving in Stereo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Northwest Corner, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 |
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Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Spank The Monkey (Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R |
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West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1 |
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West Face Crack (West Face P1) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Alan Watts |
| Page Views: | 21,111 total · 96/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 29, 2006 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This breathtaking arete will doubtlessly test your courage. Runout from the moment you leave the ground, only 6 bolts protect 80 feet of climbing!
Fear not, however, all of the hard moves are well protected. Typically the sequence goes like this: clip a bolt above your head, do a hard 5-foot boulder problem, then run it out for 10 feet of 5.9ish climbing to the next bolt, and repeat.
At the end, (just below the color change), traverse left to the anchors for the 12c first pitch of the East Face crack. There is a 7th bolt on the arete just above the traverse left. It's possible to climb up and clip this bolt, then climb down and execute the traverse.
A bolted extension to Spank the Monkey was recently freed by Tommy Caldwell at 5.13+.
Fear not, however, all of the hard moves are well protected. Typically the sequence goes like this: clip a bolt above your head, do a hard 5-foot boulder problem, then run it out for 10 feet of 5.9ish climbing to the next bolt, and repeat.
At the end, (just below the color change), traverse left to the anchors for the 12c first pitch of the East Face crack. There is a 7th bolt on the arete just above the traverse left. It's possible to climb up and clip this bolt, then climb down and execute the traverse.
A bolted extension to Spank the Monkey was recently freed by Tommy Caldwell at 5.13+.
Photos
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