PRINT: Rock Climb Sunshine, Red River Gorge

Sunshine

5.9, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 2.4 from 450 votes
FA: P. Jarrard, S. Cater, 1991
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Military Wall

Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

A short moderate sport climb that has always held the masses at Military, being one of few 'soft' warm-ups at the cliff.
The crux of this, the center of the 3 bolted lines in this short section is not so much any individual move, but the pump associated with finishing the route.

Location

From the main approach Trail go left to a short area of the wall, steep and pocketed. There are presently 3 sport routes there. From right to left these are: Into the Light (10c), Sunshine (9+) and Moonbeam (9).

Protection

5 clips to a bolt and chain anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Garrett on Sunshine

Tara on Sunshine.

Arlia Schwartz sending Sunshine 5.9+

Kianna working Sunshine. A good name for her also.

A. Rothman leading Sunshine on a great sunny fall day at Military Wall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bill Fitz
Fort Collins CO

possibly one of the most overrated routes in the red. still a good intro to red river pockets. if you want a good 9 go do pouge ethics. Sep 14, 2008

cLohse
Boulder, CO

Oh come on. This climb deserves lotsa stars. It's super pumpy for beginners, super consistent at the grade, and there isn't a single thing about it that a person could find objectionable besides the fact that it could be twice as long and, thus, twice as fun. It's a fine piece of rock climbing goodness. Nov 5, 2011

Dreez

5.10a

pumpy. I normally have no problems with 5.10s and this kicked my butt. Also kicked butt on some young studs that tried it, spit them off. Not sure its only 5.9. Jun 17, 2014

none none

As of 06/10/17, this route has been rebolted and equipped with glue-ins. Jun 11, 2017

Jordan M.

Typical Red River Gorge pump. Felt spot on for grade though very chalky. First person video: youtu.be/zBY2EWKpOcg Jan 7, 2019

Willow Jordan
Lexington, KY

5.10b

seconding bill's comment. this thing was pretty awkward Oct 3, 2023

Jarek Tuszynski
Northern Virginia

Great route, with a lot of people trying it. Good holds on slightly overhanging terrain. Densely bolted on the bottom but more space-out towards the top Mar 31, 2024