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> Yosemite Valley
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> E Yosemite Fall…
> A. Swan Slab
Swan Slab Gully
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.5 from 554
votes
Routes in A. Swan Slab
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Yose University T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Psychopath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Into the Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A0 |
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When the Going Gets Thin I Pound In A Pin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cosmic Dance (of the flying manzanitta) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Oak Tree Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Penthouse Cracks T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Slabs TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bobcat Crack T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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Patio Cracks - Left 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Patio Cracks - Center T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Patio Cracks - Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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V-Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Swan Slab Squeeze T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Swan Slab Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Oak Tree Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Grant's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bay Tree Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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5.6 Chimney Above Grant's T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unnamed Thin Crack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Seamilicious TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Funge on Munge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bobby's Lobby T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Penelope's Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Swan Slab Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pin Scar Seams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unnamed Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hanging Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Aid Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ugly Duckling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Lena's Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Goat for it T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Claude's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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JL: Jesus Loves or Just Lettuce T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 310 ft (94 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 25,602 total · 114/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Nov 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Three pitches of climbing that gets better and better with height. Finishes on a cool ledge with excellent views. All in all, straight-forward and fun.
P1 (5.6, 70')
Jam and stem your way up 70 feet of cracks in a gully. Belay from a big oak tree on a spacious ledge.
P2 (5.5, 130')
Perhaps the least aesthetic pitch on the climb. Follow a crack in an obvious corner. After approximately 80 feet, step right and follow cracks up mostly-4th class terrain. Belay from a big oak tree on a spacious ledge.
P3 (5.5, 120')
Walk up the gully and head right for about 40 feet along a grassy ledge. Climb up to meet a left-slanting hand crack. Climb the crack until it ends. Traverse right for 25 feet on an unprotected slab (5.4?). Climb a 5.5 finger crack to the top. Belay from trees and bushes.
P1 (5.6, 70')
Jam and stem your way up 70 feet of cracks in a gully. Belay from a big oak tree on a spacious ledge.
P2 (5.5, 130')
Perhaps the least aesthetic pitch on the climb. Follow a crack in an obvious corner. After approximately 80 feet, step right and follow cracks up mostly-4th class terrain. Belay from a big oak tree on a spacious ledge.
P3 (5.5, 120')
Walk up the gully and head right for about 40 feet along a grassy ledge. Climb up to meet a left-slanting hand crack. Climb the crack until it ends. Traverse right for 25 feet on an unprotected slab (5.4?). Climb a 5.5 finger crack to the top. Belay from trees and bushes.
Location
Located in the middle of the crag, Swan Slab Gully is one of the most obvious and popular climbs on the Swan Slab--look for the line of people immediately right of Penelope's Problem.
If the first pitch is occupied with top-ropers, climb Hanging Flake, which is located around the corner to the right. From the top of Hanging Flake, make a Class 2-3 traverse to the tree atop Swan Slab Gully's first pitch.
Descent (Class 2)
From the ledge atop P3, walk back and left away from the cliff. Turn right and walk up and around a higher tier of rock. Turn left and traverse the top of the tier. Gradually walk back away from the cliff and follow a climbers' trail through the bushes. Eventually, these descend and join a well-worn trail down the west side of Swan Slab.
If the first pitch is occupied with top-ropers, climb Hanging Flake, which is located around the corner to the right. From the top of Hanging Flake, make a Class 2-3 traverse to the tree atop Swan Slab Gully's first pitch.
Descent (Class 2)
From the ledge atop P3, walk back and left away from the cliff. Turn right and walk up and around a higher tier of rock. Turn left and traverse the top of the tier. Gradually walk back away from the cliff and follow a climbers' trail through the bushes. Eventually, these descend and join a well-worn trail down the west side of Swan Slab.
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