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Curving Crack
5.8,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 25
votes
FA: L. Day, T. Seibert, 1978
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Northern Gorge
> Tower Rock
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r… Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
One of many quality moderate trad lines at Tower Rock... the crux requires more confidence and "go for it" than it does raw skill. Climb up moderate moves to the underside of a right-leaning flake. Place good gear with a runner and undercling out and right from under the flake (crux) to the crack and continue upwards, again on easier ground to a ledge. Once can join Caver's Route to get to the top of the strangely barren top of Tower Rock.
Location
As you approach Tower Rock, stay right as the trail is split by the rock itself. Continue toward the far end of the rock to the beginning of the Caver's Route, distinguished as a squeeze chimney for 25 feet to a ledge, to another chimney...
Backtrack for perhaps 15 meters looking up above you on the wall. When you see a crack and flake system that hooks to the right 10 meters up with a 1-1.5" crack underclinging a steep flake, that is both your target climb, and the crux.
Protection
A standard light rack. Crux pro is a tricam or SLCD under the right-leaning flake as it gets steep.
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