Novitiate's Nightmare
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.2 from 11 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,426 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Nov 21, 2006 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Novitiate's Nightmare is a variation of The Farce, with a direct start and finish. To start, begin 15' above the groove, in the alcove below the large boulder. You can see the crack running all the way from the base to the top of lower buttress, splitting a 3' roof 3/4 of the way up. There is a .8 move just above the ground, (listed as the 5.6 direct start to the Farce in the guide) and pulling the roof is a bouldery .9. Both moves are well protected, and the rest of the route is much easier.
The roof is a fun move, and the route is worthwhile if you're trying to get up to Main wall and surrealistic and the groove have traffic.
You can do this in one long pitch with a 60m rope.
The roof is a fun move, and the route is worthwhile if you're trying to get up to Main wall and surrealistic and the groove have traffic.
You can do this in one long pitch with a 60m rope.
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