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Novitiate's Nightmare
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.2 from 11
votes
Routes in Lower Buttress
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A Boy and His Arête T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bear Hug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Black Opal T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Blue Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Farce (aka Novitiate's Delight) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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For Real Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pillar of Society S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Surrealistic Direct Knob Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,424 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Nov 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Novitiate's Nightmare is a variation of The Farce, with a direct start and finish. To start, begin 15' above the groove, in the alcove below the large boulder. You can see the crack running all the way from the base to the top of lower buttress, splitting a 3' roof 3/4 of the way up. There is a .8 move just above the ground, (listed as the 5.6 direct start to the Farce in the guide) and pulling the roof is a bouldery .9. Both moves are well protected, and the rest of the route is much easier.
The roof is a fun move, and the route is worthwhile if you're trying to get up to Main wall and surrealistic and the groove have traffic.
You can do this in one long pitch with a 60m rope.
The roof is a fun move, and the route is worthwhile if you're trying to get up to Main wall and surrealistic and the groove have traffic.
You can do this in one long pitch with a 60m rope.
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