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Prototype (HISTORIC ROUTE)
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 173
votes
Routes in Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
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Blowing Smoke at the Monkey S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bongo Fury Direct (HISTORIC ROUTE) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Buttered Side Up S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Eight Flake (HISTORIC ROUTE) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flinch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Horton Here's a Tufa S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Prototype (HISTORIC ROUTE) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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ReKleiner (HISTORIC ROUTE), The S,TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Smitten Psychopath S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Socks On Chicks S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Star Belly Sneeches S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sugar (HISTORIC ROUTE) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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There's a Wocket in my Pocket S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thing 1 Thing 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Yertle the Turtle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Scott and Jean Hudson |
| Page Views: | 14,031 total · 64/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Marr on Nov 12, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars |
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Description
On January 16th, 2019 a large rock fall destroyed much of Prototype/Dr. Seuss Wall, with climbs from Eight Flake to Bongo Fury now gone, including this climb. Take care climbing on limestone!
One of the best 5.10 climbs at Reimer's. Prototype is the right most of two lines that share the first bolt (the other is Mas Cerveza, 5.11) just to the right of the shallow dihedral at the base of Clone Call. The start overhangs a little - pull up onto a bulge using a good flake. Be sure to clip the first bolt before making any moves up the bulge or you could deck if you slipped. Look for a good two finger pocket with the right hand while you pinch with the left. Pull through the bulge to a good stance (crux). The middle part of the climb is thin, but has plenty of rests. Look for a great hold at the last bolt (a "squirrel cage"). The second difficulty on the route is moving from the last bolt to the chains. There are some small edges, and good finger pocket just below the top.
One of the best 5.10 climbs at Reimer's. Prototype is the right most of two lines that share the first bolt (the other is Mas Cerveza, 5.11) just to the right of the shallow dihedral at the base of Clone Call. The start overhangs a little - pull up onto a bulge using a good flake. Be sure to clip the first bolt before making any moves up the bulge or you could deck if you slipped. Look for a good two finger pocket with the right hand while you pinch with the left. Pull through the bulge to a good stance (crux). The middle part of the climb is thin, but has plenty of rests. Look for a great hold at the last bolt (a "squirrel cage"). The second difficulty on the route is moving from the last bolt to the chains. There are some small edges, and good finger pocket just below the top.
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