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Cote d'Azure
5.13b,
Sport,
Avg: 3.8 from 37
votes
FA: Steve Burgerella, 1995
New Hampshire
> Rumney
> Waimea
Description
Just right of Coral Sea, Cote d'Azure climbs the center of the steep wall on the right side of the raised ledge. Boulder up and clip the first two bolts and then come back down to the ledge to rest.
The crux of the climb involves weird moves up a steep wall. A V8ish boulder problem brings you to the lip. The draw at the lip is hard to clip; many people forego it on redpoint. Rock over onto a mini hanging slab and rest up for the headwall. From here, amazing 5.12a climbing continues to the anchors. This upper part of Cote d'Azure has been called the best 5.12 at Rumney. Unfortunately for some, this climbing is guarded by the tough, bouldery climbing on the lower wall.
It is somewhat understandable, though not forgivable, that a rock was glued on in order to "enhance" one of the crux holds. This made the route a more crowd pleasing 5.12d. However, the climb was quickly returned to its natural state and now rarely gets sent.
(Edit - The enhancement was a random rock glued on to a flat section, not on another hold. It was done by the original bolter, and not by Steve, who later freed the route without using it. The rock was then removed. As more people climb the grade, it is being climbed more frequently now.)
Protection
Bolts
[Hide Photo] Another one of walker.
[Hide Photo] i love this exposure! otey grabbing the top with the tree tops below...
[Hide Photo] otey, last few moves
[Hide Photo] Ian Wauchope on the upper section of Cote D'azure 13b. Photo by Andy Casler.
New England
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
Montréal
J'ai cassé la reglette clée à la troisième clip. La difficulté du parcours en a prix un coups. Il y a eu une ascention en moulinette, mais pas à que je sache en libre.
Désolé Jun 12, 2012
New England
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
it has since been restored, the broken hold replaced and i hear it came out perfectly and you cant see anything was done... Mar 11, 2013
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Arlington, MA
As others have said, good friction and finally-tuned microbeta make a huge difference on this thing. The upper 5.12 section is 5-star and confirmed possible to punt off of on the go. Sep 16, 2022