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Cote d'Azure

5.13b, Sport,  Avg: 3.8 from 37 votes
FA: Steve Burgerella, 1995
New Hampshire > Rumney > Waimea

Description

Just right of Coral Sea, Cote d'Azure climbs the center of the steep wall on the right side of the raised ledge. Boulder up and clip the first two bolts and then come back down to the ledge to rest.

The crux of the climb involves weird moves up a steep wall. A V8ish boulder problem brings you to the lip. The draw at the lip is hard to clip; many people forego it on redpoint. Rock over onto a mini hanging slab and rest up for the headwall. From here, amazing 5.12a climbing continues to the anchors. This upper part of Cote d'Azure has been called the best 5.12 at Rumney. Unfortunately for some, this climbing is guarded by the tough, bouldery climbing on the lower wall.

It is somewhat understandable, though not forgivable, that a rock was glued on in order to "enhance" one of the crux holds. This made the route a more crowd pleasing 5.12d. However, the climb was quickly returned to its natural state and now rarely gets sent.
(Edit - The enhancement was a random rock glued on to a flat section, not on another hold. It was done by the original bolter, and not by Steve, who later freed the route without using it. The rock was then removed. As more people climb the grade, it is being climbed more frequently now.)

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Walker on the send!! WOOHOO!!
[Hide Photo] Walker on the send!! WOOHOO!!
jump otey jump!
[Hide Photo] jump otey jump!
Another one of walker.
[Hide Photo] Another one of walker.
i love this exposure! otey grabbing the top with the tree tops below...
[Hide Photo] i love this exposure! otey grabbing the top with the tree tops below...
otey, last few moves
[Hide Photo] otey, last few moves
Ian Wauchope on the upper section of Cote D'azure 13b. Photo by Andy Casler.
[Hide Photo] Ian Wauchope on the upper section of Cote D'azure 13b. Photo by Andy Casler.
wow... cool...
[Hide Photo] wow... cool...
otey eating rope and looking bad ass!
[Hide Photo] otey eating rope and looking bad ass!
otey pulling over the roof...
[Hide Photo] otey pulling over the roof...
otey sticking the crux grab
[Hide Photo] otey sticking the crux grab
otey, workin it...
[Hide Photo] otey, workin it...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

M Sprague
New England
 
[Hide Comment] This route deserves a lot more ascents. It has great moves that tax your brains and brawn. I think it spanks a lot of people though. It may be closer to 13c now than originally, as I think a hold changed some. Many strong climbers find it stiff. As with many Rumney climbs, finely tuned beta makes a difference. Jun 29, 2010
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
 
[Hide Comment] one of the best lines on the cliff!!! the upper half is amazing!!! Aug 31, 2011
James Otey
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] This and Thin Man are the best routes I've climbed at Rumney Nov 3, 2011
[Hide Comment] RIP
J'ai cassé la reglette clée à la troisième clip. La difficulté du parcours en a prix un coups. Il y a eu une ascention en moulinette, mais pas à que je sache en libre.
Désolé Jun 12, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
[Hide Comment] Has this been climbed free since the latest hold change? Mar 11, 2013
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
 
[Hide Comment] To the best of my knowledge Zeb Engberg sent it after the hold broke and it was thought to be about 13d...
it has since been restored, the broken hold replaced and i hear it came out perfectly and you cant see anything was done... Mar 11, 2013
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] For A while I was thinking this was a step up from other .13b's I had done. The boulder problem at the start is just HARD, with a couple of moves you could easily fall off of. After getting on it today in crisp to almost too cold of conditions, the boulder problem felt significantly easier because of one friction dependent hold. I could still see it getting the b/ c grade, but not as convinced. Moral of the story, crisp temps can help a lot on this one! Oct 25, 2013
Kes Yogeswaran
Arlington, MA
 
[Hide Comment] I never quite figured out how to work my feet up to make the move to the lip using the traditional beta. In case anyone wants video of Troy's legendary alternate beta or general beta for lanky mortals: youtu.be/aDmvyr-rwUE.

As others have said, good friction and finally-tuned microbeta make a huge difference on this thing. The upper 5.12 section is 5-star and confirmed possible to punt off of on the go. Sep 16, 2022