PRINT: Rock Climb Sin Nombre, Big Cottonwood Canyon

Sin Nombre

5.9+, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 2.9 from 33 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Storm Mtn Picni… > Bumble Bee Wall

Access Issue: See bullet points in description. Details

Description

Jam the finger and off finger crack up to the two piton anchor. The second pitch could be combined with the first and both pitches eat up the medium sized nuts. Nice, stout grade and the best route on this wall by a long shot!

Location

Start in the crack 10 or 15' right of Check Point Charlie or two cracks right of the Bee Pitch. This one diaganols at a different angle than the others and starts just before the gap in the cliffs as you cross over to Perserverence Bulge.

Protection

Loads of medium nuts (especially the offsets), TCU's through #3 camalot, runners. Its kinda fun to dust off the tricams too.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

As of 11/22/20, this is the anchor at the top of P1. Seems like a bolted anchor would go well in the wall up and just left of this (out of sight)

Overview of the popular routes

Here is the beginning of sin nombre. Awesome Climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael Buchanan

5.9

Awesome route. Crux is at the bottom then around 5.7 to 5.8- after that. Sweeeet route. Apr 26, 2010

Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT

Descent: Rap off of foul play anchors with a 70m, or see descent beta for Perseverance Bulge Crack for other options. Jun 19, 2010

Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction

Fun route, nothing too special but its quite long which makes it worthwhile. Lower off some spectacularly bomber equalized bong pitons up in the cave that the route naturally climbs to. No need to traverse to foul play unless you do the 2nd pitch. We had a 70m and it was plenty of rope. Jul 12, 2011

Garret Nuzzo Jones
Salt Lake City, UT

I left a sling and biner on the upper piton in the cave. That anchor is a disaster waiting to happen. This is a climb that really would benefit from a real anchor. Apr 5, 2014

Ball
Oakridge, OR

Did both pitches in one. I knocked down a 50lb+ rock off the deck, revealing some nice hand holds underneath (according to my friend).

Not sure why any routes on this wall get any stars. Oct 20, 2014

Ball
Oakridge, OR

With regards to anchors, I found them pretty easy to make using tricams. No need for bolted anchors; it's a wall of choss anyway, so you may as well get in the full spirit Oct 20, 2014

Crag Turkey
Liberty Wells, UT

Best route on the wall. Start is the business, but the rest is cruiser. The second pitch was cool, however I opted to down climb it for a lower anchor. Also, the webbing was looking pretty old, I would bring a knife and new webbing if I were to do it again. I encountered a bat in the crack just below the old rusty piton. It was wild, thought it was black tat initially. Apr 28, 2015

Mulch
Jacobstown, NJ

5.9+

Followed this today and felt the route was pretty sustained throughout the entire climb. Perseverance bulge Crack is definitely WAY easier IMO. Also watch out for the Hornets nest about 40' up the climb. My buddy almost decided to take a whipper after being stung on the neck 3 times. Stay as far left on the crack as possible once you get up to around that height. Aug 5, 2017

greggrylls
Salt Lake City

5.10a

Bottom felt like a 10, pumpy and gear was tricky to place with the leaning nature. Anchor up top is good now. Bomber nut + 2 ok pins. Cords was fine. Mar 30, 2019

Jacob Northcutt
Bozeman, MT

I have to agree with Garret that this route would benefit from an anchor update.

It doesn't seem to make sense why such a good route should have such a cobbled together anchor. The cord and webbing on the anchor are weathered, and in my opinion, two bolts with chains would make this a much more enjoyable experience. If nothing else, the cord on this anchor should be replaced.

If you're leading this, keep in mind that you can traverse easily to the bolted anchor climber's left, which is in better condition. May 17, 2020