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McTech Arete
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.7 from 239 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Doug Klewin and Pat McNerthney, August 1978 |
Page Views: | 30,713 total · 140/month |
Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Oct 13, 2006 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
This is another good climb that's close to camp for those days when the weathers not so good. This route is also a classic so you might have to wait in line.
P1: Climb up flakes to a small corner roof, step left to another crack and continue up a short chimney to a belay on top of a pillar. (5.9) (Or just jam straight up the roof with perfect hands at 5.10)
P2: This pitch is classic. Follow a finger and hand crack out left from above the belay to an alcove. Climb up through the alcove jamming the outstanding crack up a steep face to a ledge and belay at a chain anchor. (5.10-) (the first two pitches can be combined)
P3: Climb some corners and easy ground up and to the right to another anchor. (5.4)
P4: Step right from the anchor behind a flake and climb up a nice corner to a roof. Traverse out right under the roof to another corner and pull a second roof to a belay ledge on the left with chains. (5.9)
P5: Climb some cracks on the face to the right and gain a corner which leads to another ledge with chains. (5.8)
P6: Climb up a steep corner and then scramble left around the arete. Continue up a face to the ridge crest and belay. (5.7)
P1: Climb up flakes to a small corner roof, step left to another crack and continue up a short chimney to a belay on top of a pillar. (5.9) (Or just jam straight up the roof with perfect hands at 5.10)
P2: This pitch is classic. Follow a finger and hand crack out left from above the belay to an alcove. Climb up through the alcove jamming the outstanding crack up a steep face to a ledge and belay at a chain anchor. (5.10-) (the first two pitches can be combined)
P3: Climb some corners and easy ground up and to the right to another anchor. (5.4)
P4: Step right from the anchor behind a flake and climb up a nice corner to a roof. Traverse out right under the roof to another corner and pull a second roof to a belay ledge on the left with chains. (5.9)
P5: Climb some cracks on the face to the right and gain a corner which leads to another ledge with chains. (5.8)
P6: Climb up a steep corner and then scramble left around the arete. Continue up a face to the ridge crest and belay. (5.7)
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