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Routes in Half Moon Rock
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Fallout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Full Moon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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It Ain’t Over Yet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rockhouse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Seibert, Ellen Seibert, Frank Becker, Larry Day, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 1,916 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Chaney on Oct 13, 2006 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
Layback or OW the initial crack. Then face climb/layback the right leaning dihedral to a belay in the chimney.
Chimney or grovel (same thing right?) to the main summit on the right side or climb a crack in the left wall (5.8) and jump across the chimney when you're done.
I'm sure at one point in time this route was a definite classic. And while the physical substance of the climb has not changed, the route is usually coated in a layer of sand washed down from the ultra-eroded summit.
Chimney or grovel (same thing right?) to the main summit on the right side or climb a crack in the left wall (5.8) and jump across the chimney when you're done.
I'm sure at one point in time this route was a definite classic. And while the physical substance of the climb has not changed, the route is usually coated in a layer of sand washed down from the ultra-eroded summit.
Location
Full Moon in on the north side of the rock, facing NW in a big dihedral on the west side of the main buttress on that face.
Hike in to the arch. Drop down and hike left around the rock until you find the obvious wide dihedral. Alternately, scramble on top of Half Moon Rock from the arch and rappel the route from a good sized tree at the top of the chimney.
Hike in to the arch. Drop down and hike left around the rock until you find the obvious wide dihedral. Alternately, scramble on top of Half Moon Rock from the arch and rappel the route from a good sized tree at the top of the chimney.
Photos
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