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West Face
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.5 from 50
votes
Routes in The Rock of Ages
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Cave Route S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Evolution S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Old Bolt Route TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Red Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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West Face S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 9,884 total · 45/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Oct 11, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Description
Starts 40 ft to the right of the Cave Route and climbs up past five bolts into a cave, belay here on three bolts. Exit the cave to the right and continue up and slightly to the left past another cave and bolt. Now move out right and follow the natural line. Don't worry if you don't see the bolts. You're probably still on route, they'll show up eventually. There's a large loose block about half way up you have to crawl over to avoid harder moves. It would take some prying to pull it off, but careful anyway. Follow the shallow scoop strait up past a few more bolts into a large cave near the top. Exit the cave to the left past two more bolts to the top. This route has some decent runnouts (30+ft) with most bolts being 15 ft to 20 ft apart. Though the cruxy moves have bolts near by under them, this route can still be a bit heads up. Makes for some classic heady oldschool Pine Canyon climbing.
Updates to clarify that
1) the mid-point belay is at the second cave straight up, and not the first cave to the right with the rusty bolts (and it still has 3 bolts, including a shiny looking glue-in)
2) the route to the left of the cave is a 10b/c --> don't go there as I did!
3) the way out is through a chute on the back or a double rappel if no one's climbing it
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