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Under The Influence
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Ridge 4 aka Mohling Arete
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Anthem To the Sun T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Carrot Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Club Salute T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Dialing For Dollars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fire On The Mountain T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Grande Parade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Hammer Case T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A2 PG13 |
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Lightning In The Sky T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Mohling Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Under The Influence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | B. Horan and J. Baldwin, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 818 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 9, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2018 Raptor Closure Lifted
Details
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This would be 3-star route if the "black hole" quality of the first 20 meters were not so powerful. But as it is, the beginning sucked the stars out of the top half. The crux of this climb up top is actually reasonably protected and on solid rock, but getting to it is pretty loose rock and is virtually unprotected.
Climb up the right side of the corner in the right facing dihedral- going further right will only make the rock worse and the pro non-existent. Continue up to low-angle rock and work to the right below the stunning crack above.
Go right of the crack onto a face hold and reach up to the gear in the lowest part of the crack. This is probably 5.9+, S. Get a hold up in the first pod of the roof and pull up into the roof on decent jams and holds to get more gear (5.10) then work your way up into the roof and through it. Footwork is key, as you can really take weight off your arms if you are vigilant to do so. Place 2-3" cams to the end of the crack, place a #4 Camalot and get onto the lip. (5.11) Pull the lip with style or awkward, whatever you find (I found one no-hands rest up there) and then onto the slab (5.11 again). Go up and right below a second roof and finish to the top, where you can scramble down to the east. Walk north 50 meters, then cut back west through a notch and gully to return to the base.
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