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Routes in (d) Northwest Recess
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Consolation Direct, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Consolation, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Constellation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Edgehogs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Error, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Farewell Horizontal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gulp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Incision, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Long Climb, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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No Locals Allowed TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sahara Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snakes on Everything T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Souvenir, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Special K T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Sting, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Swallow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Three Hour Tour T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Whodunit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wong Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | William Shand, Roy Gorin, Paul Flinchbaugh 7/1942. Free: Bill Pabst, Spencer Austin |
| Page Views: | 20,239 total · 91/month |
| Shared By: | Jordan Katz on Oct 8, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
A great moderate climb. Be wary of loose blocks, especially those that are on the middle pitches 3-5 (a bolt on P5 marks a particular dangerous block directly above it) . Many variations exist to avoid loose rock while keeping the grade manageable.
Start about 30m left of Whodunit.
P1: An easy pitch (5.0) leads to a belay beneath a series of overlaps at a small mountain mahogany (35m).
P2: Follow the crack (aiming for another small mountain mahogany) through the overhangs and belay at the base of a deep crack that doglegs sharply to the right (35m).
P3: Take the dogleg crack to the left-facing corner and follow this crack system until progress is blocked by overhangs (35m).
P4: Traverse 10 ft left, then up through the overhang (5.7), or avoid some loose blocks by climbing directly up from the belay through the overhang, then traverse left to meet up with the left crack (5.9). Take this crack for about 20m, passing one set of "closely spaced pins" and several pitons (40m).
P5: Climb up and right across a face to the base of an obvious chute, then past the "superfluous bolt" (careful to avoid the loose block above it). Follow a groove past a stuck Metolius purple cam. Belay at a comfortable ledge below a low-angle deep chimney (30m).
P6: Take the chimney to 4th class crack diagonals up and left to the top (60-70m).
Standard decent via Friction Route of North Gully.
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