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Hardcore Jollies
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 76
votes
Routes in Funk Rock City
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Gyana Mudra T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Frugal Chariot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Smokin' Joe S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Joe Camel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Emphysema T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Infidel, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Just Another Trad Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Go Easy Billy Clyde! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Goodstone T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cruising Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rite of Passage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Local Color TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Veldhaus Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eye of the Needle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sparkey Goes Crack Climbing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Manic Impression S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trad Wagon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Funkadelic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Appalachian Spring S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Seppuku S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Headstone Surfer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hardcore Jollies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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L'ile Au Ciel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Prime Directive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Up Swift Creek Without A Paddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snotrocket T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Glory Be S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | D. Lutes, H. Loeffler, D. Whelan, 1992 |
| Page Views: | 3,437 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 4, 2006 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
A 2-star climb that can be a 4-star classic if continued directly past the anchors and through L'ile Au Ciel for a 100' pitch. The climb was originally rated 5.12a, but I doubt it is really that hard. 11d might also be generous.
Locate this climb just right of Headstone Surfer and head up past 5 clips on crimps and smaller pockets to a ledge and anchors- put a longer runner on the anchors and continue into L'ile Au Ciel for 7 more clips plus anchors.
Locate this climb just right of Headstone Surfer and head up past 5 clips on crimps and smaller pockets to a ledge and anchors- put a longer runner on the anchors and continue into L'ile Au Ciel for 7 more clips plus anchors.
Location
Just right of the Headstone Surfer dihedral there is a slightly overhanging, bolted face leading up to a ledge (Hardcore Jollies) and from that ledge a wild overhanging prow with a wide scoop up it's center, perforated by pockets (L'ile Au Ciel).
Protection
5 bolts for H.J. plus the anchors, or better yet, 5 for H.J., one longer sling for the anchor, and 7 more draws for L.A.C. plus a few for the anchors on that.
You need a 60M rope to lower off to the ground, but you can lower to the anchors on the ledge with a 50M and belay from there, then rap to the ground.
You need a 60M rope to lower off to the ground, but you can lower to the anchors on the ledge with a 50M and belay from there, then rap to the ground.
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