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California
> Eastern Sierra
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Central Gorge
> Faulty Tower
Desert Storm
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.4 from 36
votes
Routes in Faulty Tower
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Baby Duck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chocolateland Variation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cottage Cheese S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crash Landing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crybaby S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Desert Storm S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Desire S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Double Take S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fender Strat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Finger Food S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Forkash & Riches S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Free Falling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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From Chocolate to Chossman S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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From Chocolate to Morphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hang A Louie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hill's Little Hill S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Just Desserts S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lalaland S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Over the Top S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Perched S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sly Little Fart Blaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Solito S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Stradivarius S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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What's Its Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | FA: Tom Herbert, 4/91, TD. |
| Page Views: | 3,728 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Friedrich on Oct 3, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Desert Storm requires an approach via Stradivarius or Fender Strat (Both excellent lines on their own) but despite it being "out of the way" is, in my opinion, one of the best .12 pitches in the gorge. The pitch ascends a beautiful golden face with big exposure and incredibly sustained moves on crimps and small pockets. Though the route is only 6 bolts long, when you look to place your feet you feel that you are much higher off the deck as all you can see is the river, and not the small tower on which the belay for the route is situated. The rock on the route is much more coarse then other rock found in the ORG and climbs more like the Sad Boulders. I feel the only reason this route is not 5 stars is because it has not received much traffic and is relatively short by gorge standards.
Location
Desert Storm can be approached via Stradivarius (8) or Fender Strat (10a), or Sly Little Fart Blaster (11d, which finishes at the shuts for Strad. All these approach routes make great warm-up for Desert Storm. It is important to note that a chain belay for Desert Storm exist directly on top of the tower, about 10 feet past the shuts for Strad. or Fender. This belay is much more comfy then attempting to belay from the shuts for Fender or Strad. After lowering off desert Storm, rapp down whatever route you used to approach the top of the pillar.
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