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> Reed's Pinnacle
Chingando
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.6 from 56 votes
Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
FA: | Chuck Pratt, June 1965 |
Page Views: | 11,981 total · 54/month |
Shared By: | Blitzo on Sep 27, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
On the far left of Reed's Pinnacle Area is a Huge, detached flake, split by a left leaning crack. This huge flake is known as The Iota. The crack is "Chingando".
The Reed guide description says something like "part of the hardman ow training circuit".
In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed adding letter grades to YDS 5.10's. He gave lots of examples for 5.10a offwidths; Chingando, Girl Next Door, Reed Pinnacle Left, Crack of Despair, Crack of Doom, The Cookie Left, Penny Nickel Arete...
The Reed guide description says something like "part of the hardman ow training circuit".
In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed adding letter grades to YDS 5.10's. He gave lots of examples for 5.10a offwidths; Chingando, Girl Next Door, Reed Pinnacle Left, Crack of Despair, Crack of Doom, The Cookie Left, Penny Nickel Arete...
Location
From the Reed's parking area walk uphill along the road 3/4 of the way to the tunnel, then head up a short loose trail directly below the climb. Scramble up a 10' "4th class" block to get to the base.
You can also traverse the entire base area from top of the main trail, dropping down below the Iota formation, and then back up the 4th class block.
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