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*CLOSED FOR SAFETY * Serenity Crack
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 1,002
votes
Routes in Western Royal Arches
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*CLOSED FOR SAFETY * Serenity Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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*CLOSED FOR SAFETY* Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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*CLOSED FOR SAFETY* Sons of Yesterday T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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*CLOSED FOR SAFETY* Super Natural T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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*CLOSED FOR SAFETY* Super Slide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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*CLOSED FOR SAFETY* Trial By Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Adrenaline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Birthday Girl T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Demimonde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Devil Waves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Deviltry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Endorphin T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Firefingers T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Maxine's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Permanent Waves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Peruvian flake right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rupto Pac T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Tenaya's Tears T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Glen Denny & Les Wilson 10/1961. FFA: Tom Higgins, Chris Jones 1967 |
| Page Views: | 94,568 total · 424/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Please do not climb as of August 23, 2023. Per the Yosemite Climbing Rangers, "A new crack system appeared overnight and there is concern that a major rockfall could happen. The park Geologist will be assessing the scene and we will keep you updated on any further changes." See here for closure.
The "Serenity-Sons" combo may be the best 5.10 crack climb in the Valley... it is just so, so good. Why anyone would do one without the other, I don't know, but since they are technically two separate routes, they are listed as such.
Serenity Crack is the crux of the linkup and comprises the first three pitches of the climb. Park at the Ahwahnee (the route is visible through the trees from the vallet area in front of the lobby) and hike in to the base.
P1: If you don't like manufactured climbs, just go home! This pitch is pretty unique -- I certainly have never seen anything like it: Hundreds of blown out pin scars the size of #1 Camalots create a practical ladder up the pitch. Unfortunately, secure gear is not available for a long, long ways, and this pitch is very unnerving to climb. Not only that but it is painful on the toes. Bring a full rack and be prepared to place cams in the flaring scars and sometimes great wires up higher. Belay at bolts. 5.10a.
P2: Climb beautiful 5.10a jams to a cruxy crack switch move higher (nice to have some small wires for this). Continue up more 5.10a to a bolted belay.
P3: Steep flakes and overhanging hands leads to a beautiful, thin splitter. The crux is a section of tips jams just before the belay. 5.10d.
Romp up the large ledge system to whatever belay stance makes the most sense for starting Sons of Yesterday.
Descent: If you do not elect to continue to Sons, rap the route or, if the route is occupied, stop at the very large ledge. Walk to the east, right edge, and furthest projecting point of the ledge and locate new rap anchors. Rap using a single 70, about 4-5 raps to return to the base.
Photos
58 Comments