PRINT: Rock Climb Sweat, Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

Sweat

5.7, Trad,

Avg: 3.4 from 219 votes
FA: Stuart Chamberlain, Richard Meining
Texas > Enchanted Rock… > Main Dome > News Wall

Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Rule Changes Concerning Pets at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area to Take Effect March 1.
Beginning March 1, new rules will take effect at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area designed to balance the need to better protect sensitive natural habitats atop the rock, including the vernal pools, and still allow visitors to continue to enjoy central Texas’ most popular destination with their pets.

Starting Tuesday, pets will only be allowed in specified camping areas, day-use areas and the Loop Trail. Pets will no longer be allowed to accompany hikers on the Summit Trail that ascends to the top of Enchanted Rock.
Most trails, including the Summit Trail, are closed 30 minutes after sunset, allowing park visitors to view the sunset and safely descend to the parking lot. The Loop Trail is the only trail open after sunset to gain access to the primitive camping areas.

For more info:
tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/…

830-685-3636

Description

Sweat is a short, but stellar, crack climb located where the blue climbers trail hits the wall. It is easy to spot as an arching crack that ends at a ledge with a small group of trees. The climb starts out as a fist crack (#3 Camalot), narrows to hands (the best part of the route), and then ends as a finger crack below the anchors. Just below the anchors are two cracks that you can use to get around a large hanging flake. You can either use the anchors at the ledge (bolts with chain links), or continue to a second set (rap anchors) located up and slight right from the ledge. To descend, rap with a single rope back to the base. Easily one of the best 5.7s in the park.

Protection

Light trad rack with cams to a #3 Camalot. Choice of two 2-bolt anchors at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

garret nearing the end of Sweat

Thors first 5.7 lead

Bobby answering the age old question of "how many intact ACL ligaments are needed to lead sweat?"

Andrew leading Sweat

Another view of Sweat in the late afternoon.

Orlando Teran in the thick of it

First Lead

The crack viewed from the trail

Camalot #3 needed for first placement above the lip. 5-6 feet higher has a bombproof notch deep in crack for large hex. Crack gets smaller as you go up.

Sweat

My bud standing at the belay spot for sweat.

Sweat

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

ben bryan
Wichita Falls, TX

Awesome early trad lead. Pro is easy, and route fun. Buzzards roost in the area... Dec 17, 2006

Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO

Not to be confused with the "Buzzards roost" area...

but yeah, there's a lot of poop Jun 29, 2007

Sean Wolf
Denver, CO

that is a sick lookin crack Jun 11, 2009

Jennifer Barton
Champaign, IL

5.7

If you don't have "man hands" to make it a fist crack, the first 10 feet is a more interesting offwidth. A #4 Camalot can provide some comfort in the first 5-10 feet of the crack. This was my favorite route of the trip. Dec 23, 2010

Jeremy Bauman
Lakewood, CO

5.6

First trad lead many years ago. I remember being so scared that I placed a piece every 2ft or so. I did it last year and placed maybe 4-5 pieces. Oct 28, 2011

Doug Meneke

The first 10-20 feet is offwidth. However, you can layback and "sit" on the rock. You can also reach in DEEP, and there is a bottom to the crack that has a lip. A good, fun solo, too.

This is also the area for easy access to the ledge up top to setup/rap-down French Route/Fly on a Windshield, Stranger than Friction, Texas Radio, and other backside classics. May 10, 2013

William Kramer
Kemmerer, WY

Fun crack, starts as OW and ends as finger, protects easy, used a #3 camalot, a #2 camalot, and a #12 stopper. Will suggest going to anchors for Pro Choice on the right, anchors on the left you have to jump cracks under that overhanging rock on top, then over to a little ledge. Easy, just don't like it cause I hit my head on thus stated rock. Apr 22, 2014

Tommy G.
Fort Polk, LA

Fantastic easy crack!! As mentioned above, the wider section in the beginning can be overcome by getting in deep and using the flake/layback, but why not hone your technique on this low angle beauty? Especially for aspiring crackheads-- lead it, set a TR and work it. Get a feel for fists and then slam some jams! Sep 18, 2014

Michael Weiss
Oakland, CA

Crack takes #4 camalots at the bottom and #0.5s at the top. Couldn't place a good #3 in until 12ish feet up so you might want to bring a #4 for the lower part of the crack. Placing nuts gets pretty good as soon as the crack gets thin enough, I think I placed a #12 and a #10 towards the top. The entire climb is at a low enough angle that I took both of my hands out of the crack to place most of my pro. Foot jams are stupid easy until the crack thins at the top 10-15 feet. I would say the crux is the last couple moves in the crack but you can still easily get a toe in if you don't have sasquatch feet. This route was in my top two most enjoyable outdoor climbing experiences, it is incredible! Dec 19, 2018

William McVeigh

Read up on how to climb cracks. This thing is no 5.7 if you are not familiar with them. Jan 22, 2019

Layne Zuelke
Baton Rouge, LA

First trad
climb I ever onsighted placing my own gear in 1990. Great for a beginner just learning to place pro. Have the right cams on your rack as noted in the other comments. Mar 18, 2019

Jay J
Euelss

5.7

Great route. Glad I had a #4 Camalot for the lower section.
Came here with my family, and it would have been a good setup since the bottom has a large flat area. Would have been except for all the buzzard poop and feathers everywhere. It stunk pretty bad. It is otherwise a nice place where you can also climb the 5.4 next to it. Sep 3, 2019

Andreas Gustav

Erock classic for the grade. Takes .4-4, tapers tighter the whole way, eats gear, good fun. Apr 5, 2022