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Wotai

5.10d, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 341 votes
FA: Melissa Quigley
Wyoming > Lander Area > Wild Iris > Erratic

Description

Stellar Wild Iris line. Climbs up an easy left leaning crack before entering into the business on the face above. Doesn't let off much from here to the anchors. Great climbing.

Location

Not immediately at the erratic, walk a few dozen yards down into the forest (trail doesn't stay next to the broken walls). The next small wall holds Wotai and handful of other routes. Wotai starts off of a large block at the base of the left leaning crack. There is a runout 11b on the face to the right. Also there are several slabby 10's and 11's on the small wall to the left, and just lower near the large boulders around the corner is the arete line that starts in the dihedral Medicine Man (11c).

Protection

6 or 7 bolts to anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dustin making the final moves to the anchor
[Hide Photo] Dustin making the final moves to the anchor
A few betas here
[Hide Photo] A few betas here
Wotai starts up the curving crack, then moves right, onto the clean white face, finishing over the small capping roof.
[Hide Photo] Wotai starts up the curving crack, then moves right, onto the clean white face, finishing over the small capping roof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
 
[Hide Comment] Very easily overlooked (why would you walk to the erratic if you're only climbing 5.10 / if you're seeking out routes at the erratic, you're probably not interested in a "lowly" 5.10). That being said, I think this is probably my favorite 10 at the Iris. Very quality. Would be worth well worth the walk to just ogle Throwin' the Houlihan and to climb this.

FYI, a bit of research says that a "Wotai" is like a guardian spirit / animal, except that it's a guardian rock. Good name. Jun 8, 2016
Gail Blauer
Gardiner, NY
[Hide Comment] Maybe I was exhausted (after 11 days on), but, I found this climb to be reachy and hard. Jul 13, 2022
JohnWesely Wesely
Lander
 
[Hide Comment] A 5.10 that will make you feel like you are climbing on a 5.12. Great sequential pocket pulling. Contender for best 10 at the Iris. Sep 8, 2023