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International
> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Smoke Bluffs
> Penny Lane
Quarryman
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.2 from 432
votes
Routes in Penny Lane
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Unreality T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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War Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Popeye and the Raven T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tougher Quarryman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Weenie T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jangling Ball Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Fishy Business S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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[Redacted] S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Total Fascination S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Exsanguinator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Smashing Windows S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Kahouker'ers T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lucifer's Lips T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Grumpy Old Men S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fat Lip S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Her Ladyship's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Body Snatcher, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Green Slime Line, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Robin Barley, P. Shackleton 1981 |
| Page Views: | 33,467 total · 147/month |
| Shared By: | ScottH on Sep 9, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Quarryman climbs an obvious, large, left-facing corner on the left side of the Penny Lane cliff band. Scramble on top of a large boulder to start. Fun, cruiser climbing leads to the top of the dihedral. Follow a crack up the steep left face out of the dihedral and around the corner to a balancy hand crack which continues up to the anchor. Nice moves and good gear the whole way.
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