Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Bingham / Goodwin '85 |
Page Views: | 3,535 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | david goldstein on Aug 28, 2006 |
Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Varied and interesting, with crack cruxes at the top and the bottom and some slab excitement in between.
The most salient feature of The Office is a left facing corner that extends from the ground to about two thirds height of the cliff. About 20M to the right of this is an obvious crack/roof/bombay flare 4M above the ground. The roof turns into a left facing corner/flake.
Climb up a couple of moves and place #3-#4 Camalot size gear in the bombay. Traverse left 3' to an obvious edge then do a cool mantle/undercling sequence to get stood up on the edge. Layback up the flake until you hit easier ground and a bolt. Continue up typical COR knobby slab face to another bolt, harder & scary if under ~5'9" tall. Follow a seam/crack (#1 Camalot) up to an alcove below a clean, vertical or steeper 1/8" crack. The crack which takes good nuts is the crux and again is harder if you can't reach a critical fingerlock with your foot on a large knob. Continue another 7M of easier ground to bolted anchors from which a single 60M rope will get you back to the ground with a few feet to spare.
The most salient feature of The Office is a left facing corner that extends from the ground to about two thirds height of the cliff. About 20M to the right of this is an obvious crack/roof/bombay flare 4M above the ground. The roof turns into a left facing corner/flake.
Climb up a couple of moves and place #3-#4 Camalot size gear in the bombay. Traverse left 3' to an obvious edge then do a cool mantle/undercling sequence to get stood up on the edge. Layback up the flake until you hit easier ground and a bolt. Continue up typical COR knobby slab face to another bolt, harder & scary if under ~5'9" tall. Follow a seam/crack (#1 Camalot) up to an alcove below a clean, vertical or steeper 1/8" crack. The crack which takes good nuts is the crux and again is harder if you can't reach a critical fingerlock with your foot on a large knob. Continue another 7M of easier ground to bolted anchors from which a single 60M rope will get you back to the ground with a few feet to spare.
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