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All Locations >
Washington
> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
> Tumwater Canyon
> Castle Rock
> Upper Castle
Angel
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 129
votes
Routes in Upper Castle
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Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Angel Dreads T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Blocks of Doom T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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By the Sea T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Devil's Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Devil's Fright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Directissima T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Equinox T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hangdog T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Saber Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Saints T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short N' Sassy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Winter Solstice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Pete Schoening & Jim Henry | FFA Fred Beckey & Don Gordon |
| Page Views: | 5,713 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Lizzy Trower on Aug 23, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
The start to this route is an ultra-classic, super-short finger-crack. There's a good rest at the handjam pods high on the route. Some consider it cheating to reach out to the rail at any point that is not the very top of the horn. Also, watch out on warm days as the crack and the super-polished footholds can get very greasy. The route continues up to a rap anchor and several more pitches to the top of Castle Rock, but this is rarely climbed.
Protection
Several small cams. Typically the green, yellow, and grey aliens work great. Also bring two shoulder length slings to sling around the horn at the top of the crack (for the anchor). From the ground, you can pretty easily flip the slings off the anchor with the rope when you're done TRing the route.
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