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Palisaid

5.13a, Trad, TR, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 4 from 23 votes
FA: Dave Groth- Mid 90’s
Minnesota > Tettegouche SP… > Palisade Head
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Description

Also known as Palace-Aid. Featured in Rock and Ice article, "Head Games" , as one of the seven US routes to die for, which is remarkable for a route in Midwest ("To die for: North America's 7 most dangerous head points", Rock and Ice, issue 138, 2004).

This former aid line was originally envisioned as a free route by Mike Dahlberg and Scott Backes (they added two bolts at 30 ft from start), and completed by Dave Groth in the late 90's. It remains one of a few hard test pieces at the crag, and features technical climbing over good gear. The route remained unrepeated for almost a decade until Chris Hirsch got the 2nd ascent in 2007.

Follow seams and thin cracks past several cruxes up a long thin line on the clean face to the left of Hidden Treasure. It's hard to miss if you are looking for it!

Protection

Wires, small to medium cams, 2 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Palisaid. Decent pro through this spot. September 2014.
[Hide Photo] Palisaid. Decent pro through this spot. September 2014.
Taylor finishing the upper crux on his redpoint send.
[Hide Photo] Taylor finishing the upper crux on his redpoint send.
Dave Groth on Palisaid. Mid 90's.
[Hide Photo] Dave Groth on Palisaid. Mid 90's.
Eric Enquist sending her on lead, clean!<br>
Photo Credit: Ryan Fuerstenberg
[Hide Photo] Eric Enquist sending her on lead, clean! Photo Credit: Ryan Fuerstenberg
Entering the easier middle section. Photo by Will Hopkins.
[Hide Photo] Entering the easier middle section. Photo by Will Hopkins.
Eating one of my #0.2s because I brought too many. Photo by Will Hopkins!
[Hide Photo] Eating one of my #0.2s because I brought too many. Photo by Will Hopkins!
An excerpt of "Head Games" by Matt Samet published in Rock and Ice "Ethics Edition" in 2004. Palisaid (Palace-Aid listed as one of the "7 routes to die for").
[Hide Photo] An excerpt of "Head Games" by Matt Samet published in Rock and Ice "Ethics Edition" in 2004. Palisaid (Palace-Aid listed as one of the "7 routes to die for").
5. This sequence was taken before the inevitable send, hence this shot...
[Hide Photo] 5. This sequence was taken before the inevitable send, hence this shot...
Eli placing ANOTHER tiny cam on Palisaid
[Hide Photo] Eli placing ANOTHER tiny cam on Palisaid
This photo makes the climb look shorter than it is.
[Hide Photo] This photo makes the climb look shorter than it is.
Eli on the upper crimpy section before the final crux finger crack
[Hide Photo] Eli on the upper crimpy section before the final crux finger crack
Spicy topout!
[Hide Photo] Spicy topout!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Bodenhamer
Madras, OR
 
[Hide Comment] What an amazing climb, I can wait to get back and go for the redpoint!!! Aug 6, 2007
Travis Melin
Portland, OR
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Superb line. Aug 27, 2007
Sean Patrick
Mountains, CO
[Hide Comment] whatever happened to the endless bickering comments for this route? i found all that stuff pretty fun to read. it's not too often that a minnesota route conjures up so much heat. Apr 30, 2008
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
[Hide Comment] That's just cabin fever talk. That and half frozen heads. Apr 30, 2008
David A Groth
Lacrosse
[Hide Comment] We may need to start bickering over this again to get the right grade in the revised falcon guide Apr 11, 2009
Travis Melin
Portland, OR
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] No need for that Dave. Definitely a hard line. I was probably just having a strong year:) Apr 11, 2009
Christopher Deal
Fargo, ND
[Hide Comment] youtube.com/watch?v=gqchtZr… different crux beta than christopher's vid. Jun 10, 2020
Ian Brenn
Chicago, IL
 
[Hide Comment] Gear is good and well spaced (except the top) go get it! Brush the loose dirt off the top before you climb or you may get an exciting surprise topping out Sep 18, 2020
Ethan Anderson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] The crack takes a bomber black totem just before the crux. Make sure to extend it and it'll give you a warm and fuzzy feeling as you climb way past it! Jun 13, 2022
Taylor Krosbakken
Duluth, MN
 
[Hide Comment] @Ethan, I'm convinced you could climb the whole route with about 8 black totems. which would be hilarious. Jun 14, 2022
[Hide Comment] I'm working on making a short documentary film about this route. Please message me or reply here if you have any footage or images of yourself or others that you would allow me to use. I'd be most interested in lead attempts. Thank you! Jul 17, 2023