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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall
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Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Don't Panic, It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Astral Traveller T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dark Matter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Culp's Fault T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mighty Mouse S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Red Arete, The S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Red Dihedral T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Stigmata T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Asahi T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Turnabout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Monks in the Gym T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Shiva's Dance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | D. Breashears, S. Mammen, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 2,867 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Aug 7, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year
Details
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click here bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Description
This climb, along with Perilous Journey, is one of the most famous mind control routes created by the gifted and famous, David Breashears, aka Kloeberdanz Kid. This route is amazing considering the era, the equipment available, the consequences of error.... Most mortals (like me) will experience this route on TR, if they choose to venture here. A lead would probably be soloing.
There is a picture of Breashears's FA on p. 94 of Climb! by Jeff Achey, Dudley Chelton, & Bob Godfrey. There, it is described that Breashears returned shortly after the FA of Perilous Journey in hopes of finding a more demanding route but was disappointed to find it "slightly easier and more secure, and with better protection (just enought to avert a ground fall.)" In a discussion about these two routes in 1976, Steve Wunsch described both these routes "like real jumps into the future to me." Jim Erickson replied, "They sure do. You'd jump right into eternity if you fell off either of 'em." If anyone can provide details of the history of this route's first ascent, that would be a wonderful enrichment to this website.
Apparently, the route is named in part for the rock/crystal embedded just above its roof.
As for the climbing, this route is quite challenging, and even on TR, it felt quite stiff for 11a (old Boulder Climbs South) or 11b (new Eldorado Canyon. This route is sustained for its first half & is fairly difficult to decipher the sequences without beta or chalk. Interestingly, W. Prehm's denotes this as 11d.
Note, the beginning of the route is located in a lush garden with plenty of poison ivy.
There is a picture of Breashears's FA on p. 94 of Climb! by Jeff Achey, Dudley Chelton, & Bob Godfrey. There, it is described that Breashears returned shortly after the FA of Perilous Journey in hopes of finding a more demanding route but was disappointed to find it "slightly easier and more secure, and with better protection (just enought to avert a ground fall.)" In a discussion about these two routes in 1976, Steve Wunsch described both these routes "like real jumps into the future to me." Jim Erickson replied, "They sure do. You'd jump right into eternity if you fell off either of 'em." If anyone can provide details of the history of this route's first ascent, that would be a wonderful enrichment to this website.
Apparently, the route is named in part for the rock/crystal embedded just above its roof.
As for the climbing, this route is quite challenging, and even on TR, it felt quite stiff for 11a (old Boulder Climbs South) or 11b (new Eldorado Canyon. This route is sustained for its first half & is fairly difficult to decipher the sequences without beta or chalk. Interestingly, W. Prehm's denotes this as 11d.
Note, the beginning of the route is located in a lush garden with plenty of poison ivy.
Location
This historic route is located 2 routes right from Red Dihedral's P1. It starts right of the stray bolt of the unknown climb 11a? to its left. It starts left of Perilous Journey. It starts below a roof and works up onto a smooth face just right of a prominent arete.
Protection
According to Rossiter's guidebook, a #2 & #2.5 Friend for the groove above the crystal is the pro. Hmmm...Camalots #1 or #2 don't fit this groove. This groove appears to be a very shallow, flaring groove that might be intimidating to trust. Higher, a yellow & red Alien can be placed just next to the ledge near mid-height. There is a downward-driven Lost Arrow above the ledge to the right. Just before topping out, you can get a red Alien & wire.
To TR, you can belay from the ground with a 60m rope off the Red Dihedral P1 anchor with the red Alien, Lost Arrow, yellow Alien for directionals.
To TR, you can belay from the ground with a 60m rope off the Red Dihedral P1 anchor with the red Alien, Lost Arrow, yellow Alien for directionals.
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