PRINT: Rock Climb Naked Lunch, Boulder

Naked Lunch

5.11+, Sport, 360 ft (109 m), 5 pitches,

Avg: 2.9 from 52 votes
FA: Adams & Hare, 2002
Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Lost Angel

Description

An excellent outing on the wall between Rock Odyssey and Awakenings. Note: except for one easily avoided move on P3, this is all Dream Canyon 5.10. Don't miss the fourth pitch which culminates the route with a nicely exposed roof.

Start in the same spot as Rock Odysseyand Awakenings, but scramble up a 3rd class ramp rightwards for about 20 to the first bolt.

P1: 10d (~7 bolts). Slabbing w/ a crux bulge @ the 3rd bolt. The first pitch of either of the other two routes could be substituted if looking to add difficulty.
P2: Actually starts at the Awakenings belay, so might be best to relocate here. Follow about 7 bolts up slabs (5.10) to a ledge with anchors.
P3: Step right, then slab up the extremely well protected crux. 5 bolts to the anchor but linking w/ P4 makes sense.
P4. Follow bolts up and left (don't go right, unless you want a rude awakening) with fun vertical moves to the finishing roof. A nice transition from slab to steep. 10d.

Rap the route w/ a single 60m, combining pitches 3 & 4 where one has to watch out for the ropes running through a notch in the roof.

The ratings are consistent with most Dream Canyon and Boulder Canyon sport climbing, but ...

Protection

7 draws plus biners etc for clipping the anchors. 10 draws + if linking 3 and 4.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lenny in the p4 stem near the top of the pitch.

Lenny is on his way to combining pitches 3 and 4 here, moving up and left from p3 anchors.

Bee stemming into the roof, Pitch 4. Photo by Craig Quincy.

Lenny Miller cruises the crux finger-tip lieback on pitch 3.

Pitch 3 (crux) of Naked Lunch, with the fun roof on Pitch 4 on the skyline.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dana Ernst
Flagstaff, AZ

There is a 5th pitch to this route. From the anchors atop pitch 4, climb up the slab (no harder than 5.8 if I remember correctly) to the top of the wall, passing a couple of diagonal cracks along the way. The pitch has far fewer bolts than the previous pitches, but there are gear options in the diagonal cracks. There is not a bolt anchor on top of the wall, however, there is a giant tree near where the route tops out. Great route! Jul 27, 2006

Ben Collett

From the top of the 4th pitch, a single rope rap (with a 60) will get you to the top of the 1st pitch of Rock Odyssey. And, by the way, this is a fun climb deserving more traffic than it gets. Oct 24, 2006

MauryB
Boulder, CO

5.11+

Not terrible to link 1&2 with a couple slings either. The crux is properly hard! Great addition to the wall. May 10, 2020

Marshall W
Boulder, CO

Fun romp. The fifth pitch has belay anchors at the top but no rap rings. If you're not comfortable with some runouts on dirty rock, bring a few mid-sized cams for pitch 5 (BD 0.5- 2). The climbing is maybe 5.6 or 5.7, but this last pitch is more sparsely bolted and has potential for a big, not so clean fall if something breaks off on you. The crux pitch is a fun, little, one move wonder. May 14, 2020

Neale Druffel
Fort Collins, CO

Climbed P1-4, good route on the R side of Lost Angel. The first pitch was more thoughtful/sustained than expected, be careful through the first couple bolts as route finding is a little tricky, and there are a couple tenuous clips (potential for a bad fall). Combining pitches 3/4 is a good way to go and makes an interesting varied pitch, using 4/5 alpine draws the rope ran pretty well. May 2, 2023