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White Punks on Dope
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 3.8 from 230
votes
Routes in Voodoo Dome
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Voodoo Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Momma Told Me Not to Come T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Dihedral Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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White Punks on Dope T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Random Neural Firing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Voodoo Chīle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Crossbones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Skull, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Emperor (aka Pea Soup), The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Light Side, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Summer Sojourn T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Burrell, Leversee, E.C.Joe, Edmiaston (1976) |
| Page Views: | 51,052 total · 223/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Jul 24, 2006 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Considered by many to be the best moderate route in Southern California. Six incredible, wildly diverse pitches make this a Sierra Classic.
Pitch 1 (5.7+)
A beautiful, knobby crack slowly tapers before leading to a belay in a comfortable alcove. Stretch a 60m rope to reach the alcove. The original guidebook proposes to establish a belay from gear before the crack tapers to nothing. (P1 would be a CLASSIC pitch on almost any other route. Here it's overshadowed by P4.)
Pitch 2 (5.8+)
Leaving the alcove is the clear crux of the pitch. Climb delicate face holds out the north (left-hand) wall of the alcove. Climb a slab alongside a thin crack and establish a belay in a cave-like alcove above.
Pitch 3 (5.7)
Exit right and enter a large chasm. Walk along the chasm to the far end. Chimney up and then scramble to a spacious ledge beneath the famous dihedral.
Pitch 4 (5.8/5.9)
One of the most memorable pitches you'll ever do. Lieback a wave-like left-facing dihedral. A finger size crack in the corner takes many small nuts, cams, & TCUs. Just as the difficulty eases, the crack widens into a gaping offwidth--place a 4-5" piece before setting off on the runout. Continue liebacking sans protection to a small belay ledge. Save some small gear for the belay. DO NOT be seduced out left of the offwidth onto face holds.
Pitch 5 (5.8)
Runout, diagonaling slab climbing past 4 bolts leads to a ledge with an aging pine tree (stump?!). The runouts are not horrendous.
Pitch 6 (5.8)
Step 15-20 feet left of the tree/stump and climb a beautiful splitter to the top.
Location
To descend from White Punks, walk north along the crest of the dome. Find the spot where the main east-west ridgeline nearly meets the top of Voodoo dome. Look for slings around a constriction and make a short rappel to the ground. Walk east or west (I like east) and then south around the dome.
Also, see Voodoo Dome main page.
Photos
56 Comments