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Utter Butter on a Rope
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 7
votes
Routes in White House Wall
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*69 T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Behind the Times T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Bolt of Rights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Brave Captain T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chemical Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Garfield Goes To Washington T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Garfield's Forgiven Affair T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grounds for Divorce T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Honey Go Climbing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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IHOP T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jingoist, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Joe Bauer's Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Junta Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Political Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Political Correctness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Political Division T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Political Prowness T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slant Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Susi's Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tap and Die T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Utter Butter on a Rope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wife Sentence T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 225 ft (68 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Bob Archbold/Vernon Phinney 89' |
| Page Views: | 1,771 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | ERolls on Jul 24, 2006 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
Vernon Phinney's book says this is 3 pitches and 5.9+ near the top. IMO trying to complete this climb as written in the book is difficult to understand. Start on P1 of Political Prowess following a right to left hand crack. Rig the second piece of pro on a quickdraw as a runner can fall into the crack and cause nasty drag. Gain the top of the flake then continue straight up a smaller crack/seam protecting with smaller gear. This will top out at the belay for P2 of Political Prowess. DO NOT belay here...instead traverse 30ft left to a gully where you'll find a verticle crack on the left where you can build a hanging belay to eyeball the entire second pitch. Climb the wall following a series of criss crossing crack/seams exactly half a 60 meter rope length to a slender pyramid horn. Here you must decide to belay again or bail(recommended) After this point rock quality degrades from excellent/very good to crap. (lichen and auto sized flakes destined for the talus heap) If you do continue straight up 5.9 you'll gain a 1.5ft ledge to belay for the last pitch. All climbing up to pyramid horn is fun, well protected and nothing harder than 5.8. The crux is the 2 rope rap.(rope eating flakes) Rap only to the first hanging belay then climb up and left where you have several options for the last rap to the ground.
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