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Pick Pocket

5.11a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 201 votes
FA: John Bachar, Rick Cashner, 1988
California > Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Upper Gorge > Holy Trinity
Warning Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! DetailsDrop down

Description

The first sport route in the gorge. Ground up bolted by John Bachar in the late 80's. This route is easily identified but its copious amounts of chalk. Start off of the boulder and crank hard starting moves up the pocketed face. Halfway up move a little left to gain a good ledge. From the ledge either bust out left to a juggy flake system or continue up and right and then back left on pockets (harder but not as good). The pockets on this climb are amazing.

Protection

5 quickdraws to lowering anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Felix Johansson leading Pick Pocket
[Hide Photo] Felix Johansson leading Pick Pocket
Monica leading Pick Pocket
[Hide Photo] Monica leading Pick Pocket
Chris Borg on Pick Pocket. October 2021
[Hide Photo] Chris Borg on Pick Pocket. October 2021
Here I am blatantly violating the 'No Posing' rule at Owens.  Pick Pocket, .11a.
[Hide Photo] Here I am blatantly violating the 'No Posing' rule at Owens. Pick Pocket, .11a.
Leading up Pick Pocket, Holy Trinity area, ORG.
[Hide Photo] Leading up Pick Pocket, Holy Trinity area, ORG.
Pick Pocket Topo
[Hide Photo] Pick Pocket Topo
Pick Pocket, Photo by David Morse
[Hide Photo] Pick Pocket, Photo by David Morse
After blowing it on lead again, I TR-ed to get the scoop.  The right hand variation at bolt six is indeed the hard way to go.<br>
E Neff photo
[Hide Photo] After blowing it on lead again, I TR-ed to get the scoop. The right hand variation at bolt six is indeed the hard way to go. E Neff photo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Folks of less than a certain height (5'9"?) will want to stick clip the first bolt or use gear (~blue Alien) to protect the first move which is a ways off the deck since you start on top of a block.

The crux occurs down low after that it is 10c pulling on some of the finest pockets anywhere. Jul 29, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
[Hide Comment] Caught, you got on that route the day before we were looking at it. Hard to pass up .....but we did.

Also, the description states Ayers/Bachar. I believe it was Rick Cashner & John Bachar who put it up in the late 80's.

Good on ya!

~Susan Jun 9, 2008
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Great climb. The moves to reach the flake are fairly reachy if you leave the move left too late. (I updated the FA info) May 29, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
[Hide Comment] How can it be a sport route if it was bolted from the ground up? Nov 3, 2011
Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] "How can it be a sport route if it was bolted from the ground up?"

It's a sport route because it's all bolts to a bolt anchor and they are nice and close together. A high percentage of sport routes are put in ground up. The style of FA doesn't change the fact that a route with a bolt every 8 feet is a sport route, even if it was put up by Bachar. Nov 3, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
[Hide Comment] Fair enough Tom. Nov 13, 2011
C h a d
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Really thrilled to have been able to climb Pick Pocket. The route is fantastic and it was nice to climb a Bachar route.

Chad Jun 12, 2015
b garrett
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Such a great route! I found the start to be very powerful (fell off a couple times on the tr). I will definitely stick clip the first bolt when I lead it. So cool to climb this historic ORG John Bachar route! Mar 6, 2019
[Hide Comment] Tried this route awhile ago and couldn't stick the start, felt like at least a V5 Boulder to get up to the slot by the first bolt and everything is super polished. I onsighted every other 5.11 I got on here... Jul 11, 2019
[Hide Comment] Sorry a bit over rated, while the history is cool this thing is polished to hell.... You'd need a big ass stiff brush and a power washer to get the chalk off this thing.... Mar 25, 2020