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> Joshua Tree NP
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> Lost Horse Rdsi…
> Ken Black Memorial Dome
Chicken Mechanics
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 25
votes
Routes in Ken Black Memorial Dome
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Blackheads T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Blackheart T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blackjack S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blackout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Chicken Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fryer Flyers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Holiday In The Sun T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Lewis Black T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pacific Avenue Dorm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pacific Heights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Pitch Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poultry Pilots T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Powdered Toast Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Brian Sillasen and Todd Gordon, May 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,636 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Jul 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start on the side of the formation that faces the road and just right of an obvious chasm (the line of My Friends Treat Me...). From a spot uphill of a large boulder, climb up past a low overhang (crux, variation 1) to reach an obvious, left-slanting finger and hand crack. Follow the crack up and left into the right side of the gully to reach a terrace. A belay can be set up with small gear in horizontal cracks on the terrace.
Variation 1: To avoid the low, 5.9 overhang, it's possible to go up the short chimney just to the right, then step left to reach the left-slanting finger and hand crack. This makes the route 5.7 and more on par with the Pacific Avenue Dorm finish.
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