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Medicine Man
5.7+,
Sport, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 143
votes
FA: (TR) Loren Scott & Chris Miller, July 1997, FL: Chris Miller & Dave Masuo, July 1997
California
> San Bernardino…
> Big Bear Lake Area
> Big Bear North
> Big Bear City Area
> Holcomb Valley…
> Central Pinnacles
> Thunderbird Wall
Description
Up the vertical face left of Nervous Twitch is this fun and popular moderate. Large features down low lead to the crux, a short somewhat steeper sequence on smaller holds; the route finishes with a mantle onto a ledge with anchors.
Not as long or continuous in nature as some of the other routes of the grade here, but still a fun climb.
[Hide Comment] Perhaps a heady lead for the grade but great moves. This is a fun route that should not be overlooked, whether looking for a warm-up or somewhere to TR for your newbie friends.
Jun 16, 2007
[Hide Comment] I agree with Bill - a little on the heady side for 5.7. May not be the best first lead for the rookie leader, but it's something that shouldn't be overlooked.
The moves may potentially be reachy for those of shorter stature.
Sep 10, 2007
[Hide Comment] I'm wondering if this one has uprated over the years. Maybe some holds have gone missing? Seems it was always a cruiser, now it feels much harder. Maybe I'm just getting old but my friends and I all thought Medicine Man to be harder than Bird of Prey.
Aug 7, 2008
[Hide Comment] Might be 5.8 if a lot of 5.7 moves qualifies a route as 5.8. Sustained, but easy enough decipher the moves that it's probably not 5.8.
Jul 26, 2010
[Hide Comment] Agreed with the rest, a bit heady. For a first time leader the start to the first bolt might be a bit intimidating. Fun route none the less but I put it at a 5.8 as well
Jun 27, 2011
[Hide Comment] I was climbing this route about a week ago and found the higher of the two anchor bolts (those shared by the Thunderbird route) was loose. The hanger is not loose on the bolt, rather the body of the bolt is lose in the bolt hole. When weighted the main body of the bolt has some play. Just a warning to those climbing this route. The bolt should probably be replaced.
Oct 3, 2012
[Hide Comment] Heady start to be sure if this is one's grade. Several moves off the deck before the first bolt and the feet are not small but they are not massive and the fall could be serious if blown.
A fun line that is not as obvious as it looks.
Jul 25, 2014
[Hide Comment] This is a very well protected 5.7 climb. Fun and short. All the holds are good. I don't see anything "heady" about leading this route. Climb it and enjoy. Sheesh.
Aug 18, 2016
[Hide Comment] The third bolt is still spinning. It moved my draw into a backclip which freaked me out a bit. I will be climbing with a wrench moving forward.
Aug 11, 2024
Avg: 2.3 from 143
votes
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Portland, OR
The moves may potentially be reachy for those of shorter stature. Sep 10, 2007
Colorado Springs, CO
Big Bear Lake
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A fun line that is not as obvious as it looks. Jul 25, 2014
Riverside, CA
Orange County, CA