Snake Dike

Snake Dike (along with Royal Arches) is one of the classic long moderate routes of Yosemite. For many climbers, this is number one on the Yosemite tick list when they first come to the Valley. For others it is known as "Snake Hike," but the bottom line is it is a great climb up an amazing natural feature to the top of one of the most spectacular formations in Yosemite - second only to El Cap itself.

Get to the SW shoulder of Half Dome by following the Muir Trail to the Mist Trail past Nevada Falls, then back on the Muir Trail. From the top of Nevada Falls, continue for 0.75 mile to an obvious climber's trail that heads off to the left, contouring around behind the back of Liberty Cap to Half Dome. Pass a swampy area (Lost Lake) on a trail to the left, and then wander up a weakness in the lower slabs to a ledge system below the south face of Half Dome. Head left across ledges underneath a steep buttress, then hook back right and up to the base of the route. The approach is six miles and takes 2.5 to 4 hours.

P1 (5.7): The route starts up a slab below a prominent upside-down L-shaped roof formation. A big tree is up in this roof area on the right. Climb up into the roof, then traverse out the left end and up onto a nice, optional belay ledge. Alternatively climb directly up the the left edge of this roof from low angle ground off to the left (this alternative path will allow you to more easily link into the next pitch - a full 200' to a bolted anchor - which is commonly done).

P2 (5.7): If you chose the optional belay, continue up the left-facing, right-leaning corner system above and past an anchor (where you'd belay if linking). Head right and pull a small overhang (0.75" piece), clip a bolt shortly after, then run it out about 40' to the next bolted anchor.

P3 (5.7): Two dikes come into view above with single bolts visible on each: The left is Snake Dike; the right is Snake Dance (off-route and significantly harder). Climb up and left past the bolt (crux, friction) to reach the dike itself. Once on the dike, continue up, passing another bolted belay, and eventually a pro bolt and then easier climbing. Stop at a second bolted belay: Note that there are actually two bolted belays in this vicinity - I prefer using the one out right which is on a nice ledge, but there is a higher one on the dike itself.

P4, P5, P6: Follow the dike for a couple more long pitches, all about 5.4, all very run out, stopping at bolted anchors.

P7: Climb off to the right to access a right-facing flake/corner with a crack behind it. Belay from gear on a ledge formed by flakes.

P8: Move way left to gain a right-leaning easy ramp, then continue up through or around roofs to belay on low angle ground off of gear.

Once you feel comfortable unroping, do so, and continue scrambling up 1000' of calf-burning slabs to the summit. Descent is down the Half Dome Cables route. You can't miss it.  This should go without saying but it's better to not leave anything at the base.

6 draws/slings, three or four small-medium sized cams. That's it!