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Flake Out aka Gill Route
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Rightovers
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5.8 Start T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Brown Sugar T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Easy Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Excellent Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flake Out aka Gill Route TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Left Y Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scraggles T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | TR, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 742 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | pete cogan on Jun 24, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead.
Details
No access from the Turkey Rock Ranch Estates neighborhood.
Description
Once you get above the tree, this route is terrific.
This route is the crack left of Brown Sugar , and has a small tree growing out of the crack halfway up it. Based on the amount of dirt in the crack below the tree, no one does this route.
You could certainly climb this with gear, but if you fall on the no-pro 11c face that is before the dirt-filled crack below the small tree, my guess is that you would hit the ledge, roll off it, then fall to your death. Which would be unfortunate since the 5.8 hand crack above the tree is such a pleasure. Great jams, good feet, a pleasure.
This route is the crack left of Brown Sugar , and has a small tree growing out of the crack halfway up it. Based on the amount of dirt in the crack below the tree, no one does this route.
You could certainly climb this with gear, but if you fall on the no-pro 11c face that is before the dirt-filled crack below the small tree, my guess is that you would hit the ledge, roll off it, then fall to your death. Which would be unfortunate since the 5.8 hand crack above the tree is such a pleasure. Great jams, good feet, a pleasure.
Protection
Climb Brown Sugar and set anchors with cams at the top. It's easy to set up a good top rope. Then rap down to the ledge -- no problem with a 60m rope. Work the 11c section or start Brown Sugar and do an exciting pendulum to the Gill crack.
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