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> Albion Basin
> Devil's Castle
Gothic Pillar
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 2.6 from 26
votes
Routes in Devil's Castle
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Des Teufels Bollwerk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Easy Snow PG13 |
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Devil's Lettuce S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Touch of Grey T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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North Face Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI3+ M5 Steep Snow R |
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Horns Of Satan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Streak T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Evil Eye T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Shadow of the Blade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gothic Miller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gothic Pillar T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Portable Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Friday the 13th T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Poon Limp or Eat Crust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Devil Made Me Do It, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Hellevator Shaft T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Dick Cheese Ball Cheney S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Political Prisioner S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bush Bullshit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 750 ft (227 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Brian Smoot and James Garrett, 24 August 2002 |
| Page Views: | 4,927 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Jun 18, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Gothic Pillar
Located 250 feet to the right of Evil Eye.
Pitch #1: Face climbing to the right of a left facing corner. 5.8, 100'.
Pitch #2: Climb the overlapping roofs (The Seismic Sea Wave) with incredible position and great rock to another ledge. 5.10d, 90'.
Pitch #3: On low angle terrain, scramble to some easy 5th class to a two bolt belay. 5.6, 160'.
Pitch #4: Climb through a roof passing pitons and bolts to a gully on the left. Traverse past this gully (well protected)to a ledge and two-bolt belay. 5.8, 120'.
Pitch #5: Jog left than right through another roof to underneath a groove. 5.9, 90'.
Pitch #6: Climb past 4 bolts (5.7) to the final upper headwall to the top. 5.11a.
Walk off.
Protection: One set of cams to 3.5 Camalot. QDs and runners. Helmet
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