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Femme Fatale
5.12c,
Sport, TR,
Avg: 3.7 from 47
votes
FA: Nate Postma, 1991
Minnesota
> Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Annadonia Area
Description
Moist most of the time. Start off the ledge to the left climb to a very "hard to clip" bolt. Fun climbing with powerful reaches and sharp crimpers/pockets. A surprising slab crux brings you to a "runout" for the bluff. Aside from the general wetness it's a really fun route and should get more traffic. Probably one of the better 12's at the bluff. Just left of "Quiet Desperation."
[Hide Comment] No bolt needs to be added to this route. Respect the first ascentionist and every ascentionist thereafter. If you can climb the crux on this route (and everything up to it), then you can easily clip the last bolt from jugs. There aren't any tenuous moves between the second to last, and last bolts. There's no reason that a person would deck from this route unless they are doing something stupid.
Jun 17, 2009
[Hide Comment] Darin, the description isn't the place to be injecting your personal opinion on ethics and bolting. If you want to comment about those things put them in the comment section. As Jonathan pointed out, you need to respect the first ascentionist and every ascentionist thereafter. Don't bring the climb down to your level.
Jul 4, 2009
[Hide Comment] I'm going to have to back up Darin on this one. While I don't agree with him, he's perfectly entitled to share his opinion about the bolting in the route description. As far as the fairly serious allegation that he "brought the route down to his level", it's not like he went out and added a bolt.
Apr 14, 2010
[Hide Comment] I support Darins right to an opinion on the climb. Regardless of my feelings on whether it is right or wrong to add a bolt, I do feel strongly that the route description is no place for such a comment. The route description is a place for just that, a description of said route, not for a discussion of personal beliefs on bolting ethics. For instance, what if I want to write a rebuttal route description and say that the bolting is stellar, can I do so? No, because the route description is already taken, therefore not making it a suitable outlet for discussion. By posting those comments in the comment section it gives us all an opportunity to respond on equal terms.When it is in the route description, we must accept that the opinion of that writer will have more clout than subsequent comments.
I don't think there were any "fairly serious allegations" thrown at Darin. I am putting "Dont bring the climb down to your level" out there as a comment to anybody thinking of rebolting that line. The first ascentionist and all subsequent ascentionist have done the climb how it is, that is how it should be left. Altering it because you are uncomfortable with the bolting brings it down to your level.
Sep 19, 2010
[Hide Comment] I agree with Randy and Jonathan there is no need for another bolt the end of the climb is cake you can no hands rest at the bucket jug if you need to then do a few moves on jugs to the next bolt after the crux. I couldn't see a scenario where someone was able to complete the crux then fall at the enormous jugs. I also agree with Anthony that a Subjective opinion like that should be in the comments section and not part of the OBJECTIVE route description. I think this route is one of my favorite routes at the wing and deserves more traffic but because of all the opinions about the possibility of decking people don't even bother trying it which is sad.
Jan 11, 2011
[Hide Comment] Lots of talking about ethics here and minimal discussion about the route itself. This baby is a classic! It's a clean line with the holds you're using and not much else. The move up to the tiny pocket requires accuracy and control while the slab crux near half way is a fun little problem that demands focus and effort. The last move near the top requires you to have stored up just enough "umph" to get you up to the chains. If you're looking to challenge yourself with a solid 12.c, this is the one!
Jun 26, 2019
[Hide Comment] My favorite so far at the Bluff. Sustained until near the end, hard from the very beginning with powerful pulling on small crimps and pockets. Slab ended up being the crux for me. Third clip can be spicy depending on beta. Felt much harder than Mississippi Burning.
Jun 9, 2020
[Hide Comment] I don't know about the current bolt status but a general point. Any rap bolted route that is runout can be tamed by adding a longer sling/webbing to the bolt after the runout. The webbing hangs down and allows you to clip the same bolt twice if desired. In this case it is easy to climb the 10c to the right and traverse over to hang the draws if desired. During the time frame this was bolted I remember seeing that being done several times in videos of stud climbers of the time on hard routes - clipping the same bolt twice. Once low and once higher. So clearly in some circles that was considered ethical. It's a whole separate discussion of the ethics of the original bolting of runout rap bolted routes - an ethics discussion entirely different than the ethics of run out bolts put up on lead.
Apr 26, 2023
[Hide Comment] I stuck a new hanger and lock nut on the bolt stud at the first bolt. This was the newer/replacement bolt that had lost it's hanger some time ago from sideways pulls (I'm told). If this one comes off too, it's likely time for a glue in there.
Oct 22, 2024
Avg: 3.7 from 47
votes
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Minneapolis
Mountains, CO
As far as the fairly serious allegation that he "brought the route down to his level", it's not like he went out and added a bolt. Apr 14, 2010
I don't think there were any "fairly serious allegations" thrown at Darin. I am putting "Dont bring the climb down to your level" out there as a comment to anybody thinking of rebolting that line. The first ascentionist and all subsequent ascentionist have done the climb how it is, that is how it should be left. Altering it because you are uncomfortable with the bolting brings it down to your level. Sep 19, 2010
Saint Paul, Minnesota
Redlands, CA
Saint Paul
I didn't notice any runout. Don't let that deter you! Apr 14, 2020
Fargo, ND
Eagan, MN
In this case it is easy to climb the 10c to the right and traverse over to hang the draws if desired.
During the time frame this was bolted I remember seeing that being done several times in videos of stud climbers of the time on hard routes - clipping the same bolt twice. Once low and once higher. So clearly in some circles that was considered ethical.
It's a whole separate discussion of the ethics of the original bolting of runout rap bolted routes - an ethics discussion entirely different than the ethics of run out bolts put up on lead. Apr 26, 2023
Saint Paul
Madison, WI
Excelsior, MN