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Chinese Freedom

5.11d, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 139 votes
FA: Nate Postma
Minnesota > Red Wing (a.k.a… > Winter Wall

Description

Chinese Freedom is one of the best climbs at Red Wing, offering great technical climbing, bomber rock(for MN dolomite, that is), and two back to back cruxes that couldn't be more different in character. Twenty feet of crimpy climbing brings you to the cruxes. The first is a delicate, improbable cross through off a flat undercling sloper. The sloper can't really be grasped, just pushed up on by standing up, and crossing through seems ridiculous until you finally commit and go for it. Many people, particularly those of a shorter stature, end up lunging at the end of the cross through; luckily the pockets you're reaching for are two of the most improbably perfect jugs you'll ever encounter on a route. Shake out and clip from the jugs, then go for the next crux; a huge deadpoint dyno to a flat edge three or four feet above the holes. This hold must be hit perfectly to prevent you're feet from popping off the nonexistent smears for feet. Once through the second crux, easier climbing featuring a fist jam rest, the world's best two finger pocket, and a couple of perfect oxide crimps lead to one last long move to a jug at the anchors.

Protection

bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Trying the crux, again...<br>
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(crux underclings seen in the background)
[Hide Photo] Trying the crux, again... (crux underclings seen in the background)
Technical crux
[Hide Photo] Technical crux
Sticking the dyno at the finish of the crux section.
[Hide Photo] Sticking the dyno at the finish of the crux section.
Right before the big cross
[Hide Photo] Right before the big cross
Nate with the Deadpoint!
[Hide Photo] Nate with the Deadpoint!
Jak making the technical crossover
[Hide Photo] Jak making the technical crossover
Leah making the throw
[Hide Photo] Leah making the throw
Joel Therneau cruising through the crux traverse. December, 2006.
[Hide Photo] Joel Therneau cruising through the crux traverse. December, 2006.
Jonathan Williams moving into the hueco jugs on Chinese Freedom. Photo by Meg Lelonek, 2005. Ben Bodenhamer belaying.
[Hide Photo] Jonathan Williams moving into the hueco jugs on Chinese Freedom. Photo by Meg Lelonek, 2005. Ben Bodenhamer belaying.
Jonathan Williams moving into the crux of Chinese freedom. Photo by Meg Lelonek. 2005.
[Hide Photo] Jonathan Williams moving into the crux of Chinese freedom. Photo by Meg Lelonek. 2005.
Moving into key footholds.
[Hide Photo] Moving into key footholds.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Adam Therneau
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Probably one of the three best routes at redwing, and the best route of the grade I've ever done. Nov 15, 2006
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] A classic and one of the most popular on this wall; and for good reason. Mar 5, 2007
BIATHLON
Duluth Mn
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] The first crux can be done without crossing through with your left hand but you must be tall. This route is so classic, a must every time I go to RedWing Oct 20, 2008
[Hide Comment] 11a/b for the sake of downgrading randy. Dec 19, 2011
randy baum
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] hahaha.

dude, i have no right to downgrade. now, you, a colorado resident, can be the downgrade sheriff. Dec 19, 2011
Greg Kosinski
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] The hold for the lunge move that marks the end of the crux broke yesterday, it's still a shelf but is now a couple inches lower Feb 3, 2020
Taylor Krosbakken
Duluth, MN
 
[Hide Comment] Greg, So the hold you go for from the double huecos? A bit easier now? Feb 4, 2020
Greg Kosinski
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] The next good hold after the double huecos that marks the end of the crux, not the two crimps in between the double huecos and the big edge. Probably a bit easier, but couldn't say for sure as it was very sandy and I didn't have a brush with me to clean it up. Feb 6, 2020
Bryan
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] The ledge is like 1 or two inches lower it doesn't really change the route much. I didn't realize a nice, new glue-in got added down below the old first bolt. Feb 25, 2020
Big Chossy Hoss
Hossland
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] This route has gotten harder since March, since it is now missing a really nice crimp pre-undercling. After climbing it a few times this year, I would say that getting into that undercling is much "weirder" than it used to be, with a few tweaky options depending on your height. Definitely feels 12- to me. However, the dyno is also shorter now so you win some and you lose some. Oct 19, 2020
Bryan
Minneapolis, MN
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Yeah I thought something felt different getting in to the undercling. It's all there but I had to get a little creative with the pre-undercling holds. Wouldn't argue with either 11d or 12a. Sep 5, 2021
Zachary Ott
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Hard to say whether this is 11d still and the betas just not obvious, or if its 12a now. A high left foot and the crimps above the huecos remove any sort of deadpoint lunge. Oct 7, 2023