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Routes in Chicken Little Area
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Left Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chicken Little S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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C -4 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cruisin for Chicks S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rooster Tail S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Casada Noodle Soup S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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C1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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C1.5 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Technical Fowl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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C2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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C3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chicken, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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C4 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chicken Scratch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicken Thief S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Right Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Rick Bradshaw and Walt Wehner |
| Page Views: | 860 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Anthony Stout on May 17, 2006 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Starts just to the right of, and gains the same ledge as Casada Noodle Soup. To spot the route just look up for a bolt line heading between two distinct cracks. Once gaining the initial ledge you can step up and clip the first bolt. A few reachy, semi difficult moves will lead to some easier ones and a smooth face with cracks on either side of the bolt line. Nice route, though one you gain the face it seems to wander back and fourth across the face (contrived)! The route setters intended for the route to head up the center between cracks for the 5.10d grade. Though the cracks are so close to the bolt line, it is very tempting to reach for the large jugs that are part of the crack system. Staying between the cracks would definitely increase the grade to or beyond the 10d listed in the guides (R. Bradshaw and JM Beverly). However, you can easily clip the bolts heading up either crack system.
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