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Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag

5.10a/b, Sport,  Avg: 2.7 from 256 votes
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Minnesota > Red Wing (a.k.a… > Cyclops Area

Description

Start a little left of the first bolt and a somewhat bouldery start leads up and right to the first bolt. Continue on the right on large holds on a somewhat hollow sounding flake. Once atop the ledge walk to the left, clip a bolt and then continue to the top working back to the right. A direct finish is also possible (5.11a) by continuing straight up from the ledge. Fun and varied climbing.

  • RCM&W #9, p. 117

Location

Approximately 9 feet right of the Cyclops.

Protection

8 bolts and a two bolt anchor with carabiners. Please use your own gear for top rope. Bring a long sling and extend the 4th bolt to avoid rope drag. A crash pad is not a bad idea here or stick clip the first bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lana Nysse on the finishing moves. Spring, '07.
[Hide Photo] Lana Nysse on the finishing moves. Spring, '07.
Chris on Sleeping Bat.
[Hide Photo] Chris on Sleeping Bat.
Ingrid paying out slack for Cody.
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Photo: Logan Dop
[Hide Photo] Ingrid paying out slack for Cody. Photo: Logan Dop
Tony M finishing up Sleeping Bat.
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Photo: Logan Dop
[Hide Photo] Tony M finishing up Sleeping Bat. Photo: Logan Dop
Full view of the climb.  Photo by Tim Schumann.
[Hide Photo] Full view of the climb. Photo by Tim Schumann.
carly on lead
[Hide Photo] carly on lead
jimmy hann on lead
[Hide Photo] jimmy hann on lead
One of my favorite climbs at Red Wing
[Hide Photo] One of my favorite climbs at Red Wing
Clay Nadeau, taking a breather
[Hide Photo] Clay Nadeau, taking a breather
Sam at the start of Sleep Bat
[Hide Photo] Sam at the start of Sleep Bat
Mar 13, 2011
[Hide Photo] Mar 13, 2011
Photo from July 2004 before the rock fall.
[Hide Photo] Photo from July 2004 before the rock fall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Adam Therneau
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This is the classic redwing 5.10. A little bit of everything: crimpy start, juggy overhang, and balancey finish. Nov 15, 2006
Glenn Burns
St. Paul, MN
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] the crux is getting to the first bolt. the footholds are like linoleum and the start holds are, well, polished.

fun route after the exciting start.

crash pad is not a bad idea here.

-=g=- May 17, 2007
josh wabaunsee
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] This is my least favorite of the 10's at redwing. not only is the start so polished as to be a few lettergrades harder, the bolt locations out right leave something to be desired, and without beta it becomes much harder quickly at the top. Jul 1, 2007
Jordan Seering
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I think the start is the crux which is a few bouldery moves to the first bolt. Fun climb! Aug 22, 2007
Sean Patrick
Mountains, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The beginning of this route suffered some rockfall this season, and climbs differently as a result. Perhaps a grade harder? With the different sequence, the second bolt is awkwardly positioned.
A couple of negative comments here, but I don't want to dissuade others from climbing it. With prudence, it isn't any more dangerous, and the movement remains as refreshing as a cool glass of iced tea on a hot summer day. Nov 19, 2007
Bob Kryzer
Minnesota
 
[Hide Comment] Best warm up route! Usually as crowded as Jump Start Sep 1, 2008
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
 
[Hide Comment] My favorite of the 10s. Kept saying "Damn this is fun!" as i climbed. Great movements throughout. Jun 2, 2010
Alex Chase
Saint Paul
[Hide Comment] Large Piece of Africa has Pulled Off! The under cling that made up the Ivory Coast has pulled away. Scary to see. This is a major hold just right of the second bolt. Who knows if the rest of the flack know as Africa will start to come off Starting with the "West" side of the Africa. It sounds more hallow than I remember.

I would belay from the left side as the piece went to the right and it would seem the rest of the pieces would as well.

It was a majorly used piece but I believe still doable at the current grad level.

Thanks and climb safe. Oct 23, 2011
Adam J. Clark
Mill Creek, WA
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Climbed the route on Monday, and still find the start to be very difficult for the grade, even more so than the top slab section. The Africa flake seemed very unstable, wiggling just a little bit when stepped on. Jun 26, 2013
Dakota S
Denver, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Just did this route. Pretty fun, getting the flash was incredibly satisfying! The start in my opinion isn't the hardest. Very boulder-esque but actually doable if you look through the route. The overhanging section after the ledge was definitely the crux. I would honestly say due to the start and finishes it is a solid 5.10b Sep 28, 2013
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] the start is bouldery indeed and not 10a... might have been at some point and it's ok to mark this as 10a to keep with the history of the route but anywhere else or if the start of the climb was the finish of the climb it'd easily be 10b/c if not harder. Aug 17, 2014
Bryan
Minneapolis, MN
 
[Hide Comment] Just climbed this one today and it's probably my favorite route at Red Wing so far. It has a little bit of everything. Super fun all around. Yeah the start is pretty polished and tough but it's not terrible. May 12, 2015
Nathan Anderson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] One of the better routes at Red Wing. The top sequence to the right of the cave is especially cool. May 25, 2019
Lucas Melchior
Minneapolis, MN
  5.10a/b PG13
[Hide Comment] Flashed this yesterday and it’s now my favorite climb at BB. Got a little sketched out on the balance finish, but hung on. I’ll be back on this for sure. Great climb. Oct 21, 2019
Ryan Donahue
Rochester, MN
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I climbed this last week. Super fun route. The first two clips are hard because it’s very polished (10+/11- type of climbing) but after that it gets a lot better. The last two finishing moves will challenge a 5.10 lead climber. Jun 23, 2021
K Dub
Out West
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Surprising how good this was. Very enjoyable. Many different styles all in one route.

Gotta laugh at the description above. It has 10+/11- moves at the bottom, but it's 10b. Classic Minnesota.

This route is ready for a rebolt. Hangers all looked good but the nuts and bolts at each were completely rusted. None were loose, yet. Aug 12, 2021