PRINT: Rock Climb Nightingale's on Vacation, Smith Rock

Nightingale's on Vacation

5.10a/b, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 180 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (l) Christian B… > Christian Brothers -…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

This route has one hard section in the middle of the route. The crux is a tricky sequence in a slight bulge just above a ledge, and a fall at this spot may land you on the ledge. Enjoyable moves here, but oh so short, then on to an easy finish.

Location

On the far left side of the Testament Slab, right of the chimney/gully, Gothic Cathedral, and just right of the crack line, Old Testament.

Protection

7 Bolts. Rap Anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nightingale's on Vacation is on the leftmost face of the slab

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada

5.10a/b

A fun technical sequence above the ledge leads to much easier ground. Seems soft for 10b. Jul 11, 2010

C h a d

5.10a

With regards to the route description above; in my experience, falling off at the crux has not been at all problematic. I've belayed someone who fell at the crux and I've done the same. Both falls resulted in the leader going down the left side of the block without any contact. Smooth sailing.

Chad Apr 24, 2011

Erik Keever

Agree this felt soft at .10b. I ended up on a sequence that felt .9+/10a. Judging by the chalked face holds right (and the lack of marks on my sequence), that's probably why the consensus is .10b.

Read backwards for beta/spoiler:
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I felt Irreverence just right was a good deal harder, but by late morning the heat was probably enough to color my perceptions. Oct 12, 2015

Zachary Winters
Winthrop, WA

5.10a

The select book gives this 10a, which feels right to me. A bit of a one-move-wonder, but there is some 5.9 climbing with your bolt below your feet on the first half to keep things interesting before you get to the crux. Crux is very comfortably bolted compared to the Smith standard (one or two moves between clips at the crux). Mar 20, 2016

Rob L

5.10a

I saw many people start the climb by immediately going left and using the retaining wall and a large boulder to get on the arete, but I went straight up the face and then traversed left. I found that opening sequence to be really fun, with some delicate footwork and one or two 10- balancey/lieback moves. Rest of the route goes as others have described. Definitely worth a go! Nov 12, 2017

Quincy aka Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA

5.10b

5.8 climbing below crux and maybe 5.9 climbing above crux. I fell just before clipping the 5th bolt and my belayer had me tight so I just missed hitting the ledge (fell a little above it and to the left. If I had slack out I may have hit the ledge, but it tapers to the left so maybe not.) 2 bolts and one chain link at anchor. Jul 25, 2018

Amine Chater
Bend, OR

One of the easiest 5.10B routes at Smith. The crux is very well protected. Fun Apr 14, 2019

Ben Chaloupka
Eugene, OR

5.10a

Very fun climb with lots of moves on the arete! If you're climbing this as a single pitch, clip the loweroffs and call it a day. If climbing as a multi with Via Dolorosa as the second pitch, climb to the beefy Metolius rap bolts for a more comfortable belay and a more logical breaking point between the two pitches. Dec 17, 2021