PRINT: Rock Climb Against All Cobbs, El Rito

Against All Cobbs

5.12c, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3.4 from 47 votes
FA: Jean Delataillade
New Mexico > El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > Rad Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Warning Details

Season Raptor Nesting
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.

Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554

Description

This one climbs a little different than most of the climbs on Rad Wall. Start at the right side of the in ground flake, climb through the first 2 bolts enduring a mini crux passing the second bolt. From here beware those aren't jugs like they look like from the ground.

Head up and slightly right passing the crimpy hard crux, once past that rest when possible and climb through an easier crux towards the top.

Location

Start between Stroke Me and Crack Attack. Starts on the right side of a large flake sticking out of the ground.

Protection

Seven bolts to chains with lower biners. As of April 2020, 5th bolt has a fixed cable draw to facilitate cleaning (the leader clips her/his rope into the permadraw on the way down while cleaning) and negates the swing into the trees behind.

As the comments here detail, there used to be a a good run out between bolts 1 and 2 which could result in a kinda ugly fall in that area. However, with the FA's permission, a bolt was added between these two bolts (Spring 2021) in a logical clip stance area making for a much more enjoyable and safe experience.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climbing through the crux. May 2013.

Tyler in the thick of it

Above the crux moves but still plenty pumpy. May 2013.

Page making the early crux moves on Against All Cobbs.

Eric Whitbeck looking "hooottt" on Against All Cobbs

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jon Dela
Santa Fe, NM

That's correct. When I put this route up, the clips made sense. If an extra bolt makes this climb safer for most people, then I have no problem with someone adding one. Eric, I think you're talking about Doug Couleur. Jun 18, 2008

Doug Couleur

It's not strength, it's fear; no matter how many times I've done this route, I don't want to come off at the beginning. If Jean says go, fine with me, although it shouldn't be a ground fall if the belayer is paying attention, and doesn't weigh a hundred pounds less than the climber. Jul 3, 2008

Darren Mabe

yeah. i also think there should be another bolt above the second. the holds that look like jugs are really not. i tested the fall a couple of times before getting to the 3rd bolt, and came close to decking. the moves getting to the 3rd are really not that hard, but hard enough that its not worth the risk of decking. if i am up there again and i remember to bring my drill, i will poke one in if no one minds. sounds like the FA, Jean, (above) wouldnt mind. Oct 19, 2009

WAGbag
Denver, CO

I'll actually vote 'no' for adding a bolt. By the time you get high enough where there is deck-potential, it's easy holds to get into the 3rd. Adding a bolt just means you'd have to clip off bad holds. An alert belayer will remove any real danger here.

Adding a sling on the 4th makes clipping easier for the crux that follows. Apr 19, 2010

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO

5.12c

Personally I've never found the move getting to the clipping hold for the third bolt very easy. This move feels just as hard as some of the earlier moves to me. So heads up through this section it is very possible to blow this move which will leave you very close to or on the ground even with a great belayer.

I didn't find the lower hold to be bad to clip off whatsoever, however since this is an established climb for many years now with hundreds of ascents it should probably be left as is. I don't have strong feelings either way though. May 18, 2010

J. Albers
Colorado

5.12c

I would have to agree with Disturbing and Darren on this one. I never found the moves to the third bolt to be particularly easy. Yes, if you have a good belayer, you will not deck, but you will likely cream the sh#t out of them when you come in...not super pleasant. +1 for adding a bolt if anyone is so inclined, though I used to just hang a long draw on my way down from Crack Attack which mitigates the stress a bit. May 24, 2010

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

5.12c

I put in a separate anchor for this route yesterday, 5/11/2012. It's down and to the left of Crack Attack a few feet where there are a couple of good cobbles for the anchor bolts and keeps the anchor over the route. If you feel you're getting cheated a couple moves by using the new anchor, by all means keep on going to Crack Attack's anchor still. The separate anchor is nice on those busy weekend days.

I also put an belay anchor bolt in the huge cobble buried in the ground at the base. This might help help keep the belayer's head out of the leader's ass in case of a fall above the second bolt. May 12, 2012

Mort

5.12c

My 2 cents... sure doesn't feel easy getting to that third bolt. After reading the comments here, I was all ready to add a bolt. However, I couldn't figure out where I'd stop to clip it, so I didn't add one. Aug 18, 2013

Frank Stein
Picayune, MS

Going to third bolt will get your attention, but not as bad as it seems. Don't let it keep you off this route. Best on Rad Wall IMO. Nov 7, 2013

Jeremy K
Evergreen, CO

+1 for an extra bolt, it would make the route better IMO. Clipping seemed reasonable from the RH edge (on the otherwise sloping cobble) midway between 2 and 3. May 5, 2015

DannyR
Los Alamos, NM

5.12c

Fun route, super pumpy! :) (not scary or sketchy) Jul 15, 2015

Matt Jones
Colorado Springs, CO

The bolt spacing is just fine with an experienced belayer. The harder moves between bolts 2 and 3 are relatively close to the 2nd bolt, and when you come up on the 3rd bolt you have a jug to clip from as well as large options for your feet. I don't care if anyone adds a bolt, but people have been talking about it for years on here yet no one has. That should tell you something. Mar 29, 2019

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM

5.12c

Sometime in the spring of 2021, after much discussion over the years, a bolt was added in the run out section between what was bolts two and three. I didn't add it but it is in the best possible location with a logical clip hold so I commend the person that did it. The route is much more enjoyable now without the prospect of tangling up with your belayer and/or kissing the ground with a fall so low to the ground.

Considering the FA, Jean, has given consent for this addition, I sincerely hope this addition is respected and no one decides to take it upon themselves to remove it. Jul 11, 2021

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM

5.12c

First bolt was missing today. Recommend stick-clipping until this is resolved.

The retrobolt (b2 currently) definitely makes it less scary, but it is the hardest clip on the route.

I won’t judge these changes, other than to note that (1) changing it anonymously is chickenshit and(2) I’m glad I (first) redpointed the climb before it got changed. Aug 22, 2021

Tyler Ganter

5.12c

Thanks so much to whoever rebolted this! Was a super fun project and no stress thanks to it Sep 13, 2021