Beatle Brow Bulge

The initial overhang on this route is much more imposing than the word "bulge" suggests, but "Beatle Brow Roof" lacks poetry. Either way, it's a great pitch. Historically rated 5.9+, the latest version of the Williams guide calls it 10-, which I think is accurate considering the sustained overhanging climbing above the roof.

Climb easy rock up to the roof, passing a vertically-placed pin about halfway up the face. Climb through the well-protected roof at a short left-facing corner/flake, and then straight up the overhanging face above on good holds. 

(Blueberry Wine, a poorly protected 5.10, goes through the same roof system at a notch, ten feet to the right of BBB.)

Above the overhanging section is a ledge at which the angle eases and the rock becomes dirtier. To rappel using a single 60, go to a bolted station off to climber's right.

There is a second pitch to the top, of lesser quality and difficulty, which angles up right to a left-facing corner.

Standard rack.

There is an enticing vertical crack near the lip of the roof, right where the climber pulls the crux, that historically accepted a #1 BD cam. This can be seen in some of the photos available here on MP. Over the last few years, several climbers have placed that cam and fallen on it. In some cases, protection placed in that location has failed, and potentially expanded the crack- a #2 BD fits better now. The hold on top of the block that forms it still feels solid, but assess very carefully before placing anything in this crack, and strongly consider not putting it there at all. There is plenty of other good protection available at this spot within easy reach, and in all directions.