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> (d) Dana's Arch Area
Heaven's Gate
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.7 from 122 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, 4 pitches |
FA: | David Gunstone and Darryl Cramer |
Page Views: | 17,623 total · 78/month |
Shared By: | Jesse James on Apr 16, 2006 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
This route is basically a 3 pitch extension to the first pitch of Lamplighter.
P1(5.10c). Lamplighter, it is a steep looking wide crack, with many good holds to supplement. After the chimney follow a crack system slightly right past a couple bolts. Don't belay at the first anchor you see! Keep heading right another 20 feet to another two bolt anchor. I thought this was the best pitch on the route.
P2(5.11a). Follow Bolts over the bulge directly above the belay to an edgy face.
P3(5.10+). More edging past many bolts.
P4(5.11a). Follow more bolts past two roofs to a final two bolt anchor at a nice ledge. The second roof holds the crux of the route in my opinion.
A 70 meter rope will get you through all of the rappels
P1(5.10c). Lamplighter, it is a steep looking wide crack, with many good holds to supplement. After the chimney follow a crack system slightly right past a couple bolts. Don't belay at the first anchor you see! Keep heading right another 20 feet to another two bolt anchor. I thought this was the best pitch on the route.
P2(5.11a). Follow Bolts over the bulge directly above the belay to an edgy face.
P3(5.10+). More edging past many bolts.
P4(5.11a). Follow more bolts past two roofs to a final two bolt anchor at a nice ledge. The second roof holds the crux of the route in my opinion.
A 70 meter rope will get you through all of the rappels
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